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Rb26 complete head with covers ect... 1500 Sold pending payment

Rb26 virgin block $350

Rb26 fuel rail $40

R33 Gtr injectors $250

R32 Gtr fuel pump 80

R33 Gtr working coil packs 130

R32 Gtr working coil packs 50ea I have 5

Rb26 afms x2 70

R32 Gtr gtst dash small bubble 50

Rb26 sump complete with diff $150

Rb26 rods $80

Rb26 crank in good condition come out of running car from r32 Gtr just buy a collar 300

Rb26 intake complete intake side includes plenum throttles bodies and everything up to the head and under plenum $350

Rb26 water pump brand new still in box

Rb26 stock oil cooler 40

Rb26 r33 gtr air con pump $80

Rb26 alternator $60

Rb26 turbo manifolds $60

Rb26 turbo oil and water steel lines $40

Rb26 twin turbo pipe $40

R32 Gtr standard suspension 50

R32 Gtr wheels and falken tyres $500

Chrome gear knob nismo style$10

Rb26 alloy engine brackets 30

Rb26 engine mounts used but appear to be ok 20

Rb26 knock sensors 40

Rb26 r33 knock sensor loom 20

R33 Gtr gearbox under plenum loom 40

R32 Gtr radiator shroud 30

Rb26 turbo intake pipes 40

Pioneer cheap cd player 30

Rb26 gearbox mount 30

Rb gearbox plate goes in between block and flywheel 30

Rb26 air reg 70

Rb26 acc valve

Location gold coast but happy to post most things

0487924497

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  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, there's a very minor drift left that happens a few seconds after letting go of the steering wheel, but not enough to bother me. Enjoying the car still!
    • Got you mate. Check your email!
    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
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