Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For sale is my 96' Skyline GTS-t.

This is an extremely tidy example of an R33 with medium to light mods.

I have owned this car for the better part of a year and am only selling as I now want a 200sx and the opportunity has presented itself.

Price: $10,000

K’s: 88,000

Year: 1996 (Series II)

Rego: 5 months

MANUAL

Located at Ferny Grove 4055

Aside from the standard Climate control and dual airbags, the car also has the following.

Modifications-

Exterior:

· Respray in Red/Maroon 1 year ago

· Nissan front lip (sticker-bombed over white paint, easily removed)

· Standard M-spec kit

· Restored head lights.

· Few Stickers

· Number plate relocated (easily swapped back to centre)

Interior:

· HDI Digital boost gauge

· Sony head unit with internal iphone/ipod/mp3 storage (no cd player, mp3 only)

· GTR front bucket seats

· Custom parcel shelf made for 6x9 speakers in custom pods

· Carbon fibre Nissan hand brake handle

· Nismo low profile gear knob or Tomei low profile gear knob

· 12" JL AUDIO W1 sub

· Genuine Nissan floor mats

Engine:

· HKS Front mount w/ polished aluminium

· Monza BOV (plum back or vent to atmosphere) + standard bov

· Pod filter (Shielded)

· GTR fuel pump

· NGK Iridium plugs + standard copper's

· 3.5" exhaust, from dump pip back with matte black drift tips

· HDI dual stage electronic boost controller and gauge (in cab)

· Removal of coilpack cover to decrease coilpack temp

· Fully shimmed rear diff centre done by O1G (not installed)

· K&N Oil filter

· Royal Purple engine oil changed every 5000k's

· Redline gearbox oil changed every 10000k's

Suspension:

· Full Cusco adjustable coilovers w/dampeners or front Tein superstreets & rear HKS coilovers adjustable w/dampeners (buyer chooses one set)

· HICAS Lock out bar

· New ball joints pressed into rear hicas tie end rods done by Pedders

· Nissan strut brace

· Front strut brace

· 17" Drift Teks 8"fronts 9.5" rears w/stretched tyres @ 85% tread

· Black Sumitomo callipers

· Performance brake pads

This car is very well maintained, always treated to the best oils, only run on 98 Ultimate.

It is always garaged and is not thrashed. It is my daily drive and is always treated with dignity. It is always warmed up before driving and cooled before being turned off, speed bumps are taken extremely slowly. I honestly love this car and don’t treat it like a piece of shit skyline that gets skidded every week at Pinkenba.. It is ultra-reliable and has never missed a beat.

Extra’s that I have for the car that can be included in the sale.

· Single sided front mount with piping

· Apexi SAFC with handheld controller

· HKS Boost gauge

· Rear shimmed diff centre

· Spare set of coilovers (HKS rears + TEIN SS fronts)

· Standard wheels

· Monza trumpet/plum back BOV

· 1kg Aus certified fire extinguisher + bracket

· HD DVI event recorder (insurance purposes)

· Spare front bumper (silver, paint is a bit shabby)

· Red ‘DRIFT’ seat covers

Standard front grille in red

IMG_1454.jpg

IMG_1430.jpg

IMG_1130.jpg

IMG_1129.jpg

IMG_1538.jpg

IMG_1535.jpg

IMG_1534.jpg

IMG_1385.jpg

IMG_1009.jpg

IMG_1537.jpg

IMG_1433.jpg

IMG_1116.jpg

If you’re interested you can call, text or pm me.

No joyriders or tyre kickers. I will be accompanying all test drives.

Let me know if there are any details you’re after that I have not listed.

Dave

post-91119-0-32436400-1347253972_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408971-96-r33-gts-t-series-ii/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car remains in paint jail. I am now pretty convinced that the whole "RB25 Airboxes are kinda limiting to ~300kw" could be a thing. Also saw a good video from Engine Masters: (Sorry for FB link) (https://www.facebook.com/watch/?ref=search&v=761771519471924&external_log_id=c10bcbb6-2c39-4ff3-9240-287e9921fde6&q=Cold Air Considerations) Where they tested Pod Filter sizes and kept adding bends to a LS3 on an Engine Dyno to find if bends caused power loss. It's a good video worth watching - They did lose ~25hp from making an intake which had 3x90's and a 120 degree. They only lost maybe 1hp with a basic 90. I feel that by sealing up my airbox I have: 1) Created the same restriction a stock airbox would have. 2) Created a very convoluted set of intake 'pipes' by forcing all the air through the ducts. So I am pretty confident I'll be going full circle and have a huge hot air intake pod and actually see a benefit. The air does *not* stay hot once it gets flowing, aided by the ducts, and the pod can then pull air from anywhere. All the posts of yore talk about the stock airbox costing 10-15kw at 300kw+ but you know what? I f**king would very much like that 10-15kw and I remember my own pod filter in engine bay experiences. Turns out the GTT Reo and Headlight brackets really don't allow you to mount GTR items, no matter what the internet says. Various brackets have had to be made up to actually make it fit right for the front bar. Also some idiot mounted a 3L Accusump right where the bumper wants to go, so that has had to be 'relocated' To where, I am still not sure, but it's supposedly mounted in the pictures and I can't see it.
    • Sounds like the oil pressure light is wired into the oil temp sensor... As it warms up, resistance on temp sensor reduces, hence more current can flow and the dash light gets brighter.
    • Got the front subframe and suspension in.    
    • If it's cold in summer, then no issue. If it's cutting out every few seconds and you're not reaching your target temp, then there's an issue. One could be the pressure switch and the other issue could be the temp probe inside the evaporator.
×
×
  • Create New...