Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

nawww, you should hit the track at every opportunity! Then you can get some feedback in laptimes as to how succesful your mods are ;)

Suspension wise, I'd get some BC Coilovers, they're working great for me and a couple other skyline drivers in drift and Super Series and going well on them.

haha well i would love to if i knew people who went! lol that and i want to make sure my car isnt going to blow on my first ever lap so trying to get everything all sorted but im a paranoid overthinker when it comes to my skyline so that might be a while :P everything on it is original so thats why im worried "things" are going to break haha...

I've seen BC coilovers a few times when ive been reading up on them, they arnt too bad priced either i believe? do you know if its easy to get them reconditioned later on in hobart? or do they have to be sent off?

Next time we're heading out to the track I'll extend an invite your way :)

I saw a very tidy, all original 33, wheels and all, going across the bridge today at like 3:45, wouldn't have happened to be you?

Stock 33s love it on the Track, Jay used to take his out a bit, just the standard SMIC gets a little warm and you lose power after a few laps :(

I've not looked into rebuilding BCs, and I don't think anyone in tassie does it either :/

Next time we're heading out to the track I'll extend an invite your way :)

I saw a very tidy, all original 33, wheels and all, going across the bridge today at like 3:45, wouldn't have happened to be you?

Stock 33s love it on the Track, Jay used to take his out a bit, just the standard SMIC gets a little warm and you lose power after a few laps :(

I've not looked into rebuilding BCs, and I don't think anyone in tassie does it either :/

that would be awesome zoid then i can finally meet some of you guys and pick all of your brains lol

Nahh wasnt me unfortunately :(., mines a white 33 with black rims and L plates :P... (in baaad need of new rims...they are just painted stock nissan wheels from the previous owner lol)

So really theres nothing i "need" to do to my car to be able to take it too a track day then? i think im just a bit paranoid about taking it because i know next to nothing about the cars previous history so not sure if its just going to "blow" the minute i give it to her lol

just another question guys, i bought slotted rotors aswell and replaced all them but i think i might not have bedded in my brakes properly....how will i know if ive done some damage to the rotors?

i got the pads and brakes put on but then i had to drive it home from kingston unfortunately so the big hill coming back into hobart would have got my brakes fairly hot but then i had to stop start all threw town....i tried my best to not use my brakes but you guys know what its like.... i took it for a drive the next day down to cambridge and didnt notice any form of vibration or shuddering so maybe thats a good sign?

i was still paranoid about using my brakes yesterday so made sure i left the car overnight with no brake applied....should i just roll with what ive already done or should i go out and bed the brakes in today even though its been driven twice already?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
×
×
  • Create New...