Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1984 Toyota Tarago V8

I have been thinking about selling this for awhile now, So will put it up to see how it goes, Not fussed if it sells really, but cant really afford so many toys,

I have had this van for about 5 years, The motor conversion has been in it for about 2-3 years, It was originaly a 3Y 4cyl and 5 speed manual...... It was far to slow.......

It now has a mild 308 Holden V8, The motor was built by "The Brock Shop" a few years ago, It has been very well looked after and very regulary serviced,

It has ported heads with bigger valves, springs etc, ACL Flat top pistons, Fairly lumpy cam (unsure specs) Edelbrock performer manifold, 600 Holley, MSD Coil, Crane cams ignition unit, Crane cams electrionic dizzy, hi volume oil pump, Rollmaster timing gear, new hi-torque gear reduction starter motor, brand new balanced flexplate with new ARP bolts, usual good gear, It has a 3000rpm Hi-stall convertor, trimatic auto box, new Hurst pro ratchet shifter, Running Commodore diff (3:23 ratio, open, really needs 3:89) It has twin radiators with thermo fans, stainless steel flexable bottom radiator hose, (sprintcar style)

It is running a twin exhaust, has stock exhaust manifolds (not gotten to modifying extractors yet, But have big ones to go with it) has twin 2.25" exhaust to 2 "Hooker Headers Aero chamber" mufflers, then twin 2.5" tailpipes, sounds great,

The van is currently making about 200rwhp, was making 185rwhp with an extremely restrictive exhaust but is now changed, Will make more as it needs a tune, This will be getting done when I find time etc,

It is Mod plated for the conversion and registered as a 308 with the current motor, Registration due in January 2013,

The van itself does have some rust in the usual Tarago places, and the paint is a rough, few minor dents etc, would need a paint job to look the part again, Also needs a windscreen as it has a crack in it, but makes for an awesome sleeper as is,

I am still fixing it up slowly and will continue to do so untill sold,

It is a pretty cool cruiser and gets lots of looks (many unsure and confused ones) and definatly a whole lot of fun to drive,

It is still an 8 seater van so you can go cruising with 7 of your mates

May swap or part trade with cash either way, open to offers

Will swap drifter, S14, something tough, Make an offer

Asking $4500 ono

(dont offer me $2500 then try to tell me you know more about my car than I do!)

Car is Located in Redlands area, Brisbane, 0481109712

The bullbar is no longer on it but it does come with it if wanted,

ghhg025.jpg

ghhg023.jpg

picture053av.jpg

picture052q.jpg

picture154r.jpg

picture148j.jpg

picture152qx.jpg

img1561at.jpg

img1564ze.jpg

img1583gv.jpg

img1586o.jpg

img1581bi.jpg

img1580si.jpg

Edited by 350stato
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
    • Just one thing; tapping tapered threads is tricky. Taps are always tapered and you would generally run it as far as you can, but with a tapered thread you have to stop much sooner otherwise the wide part of the taper will run in too far and you will have to thread the sensor in too far too as well (possible that it will never make a good seal) BTW nice wide wheels, I guess the top one is for the back!
    • Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity. Edit: 11kg each (or 10.9/11.1 depending on what my scale decides over multiple tests, the 18x11 don't seem to weigh noticeably any more than 10.5)  
×
×
  • Create New...