Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

best thing about clay is you cant do any damage, but only thing with clay is once you drop it you got to throw it away because it sticks to the dirt, get quick detailer, and put it in a seperate bottle and dilute it 50/50 with water as no need to waste 100% quick detailer

wash car, clar bar using quick detailer, then use a orbital buffer to cut,polish

then finish off with a hand wax

will come up a1

waxit.com has amazing products eg. poorboys

buffing is a whole other thread, covered allot of times, af far as clay, if you EVER hear a squeak or squeel or scrape stop because i have seen tiny grit get cought then just fark up paintworks. make sure the car is as cleas as you can get it with propper wash and shammy

Clay magic.

Waxit for cheap (SAU discount)

Carcareproducts for range.

Waxit just brought in a whole new batch of claymagic.

Dont use a quick detailer as lube, use the lubricant made for one. like one included in claymagic kit below. Generally because it contradicts to what you're doing. Quick detailers usually have a sealant in it. When claying, you're trying to remove stuff, not seal it in.

Claymagic kit: http://www.waxit.com...uemart&Itemid=1

^ Split the clay into 4. Put 3 in the sealed bag provided. and the 1 that you use, store it in sandwich ziplock bag, spray a bit of the lube inside bag when storing.

As someone said, as soon as you drop one, throw it away, or you'll just end up marring your paint.

Google two bucket wash, use ph natural shampoo, so it doesn't eat away the wax/sealant that you have already applied.

If you already have some sort of old wax, claybar can remove it, but i tend to use something like Mint APC diluted down to 1:60 (bottle recommends 1:40-80), that'll get most of the wax off without harming the paint.

Dont use any type of shammy, (well i prefer not to, especially on dark car, mainly because of marring) Get something like a waffle weave towel. Super soft, stupidly absorbent.

Oh and Clay magic (along with Dodo juice and 3M) is from japan, all the same grade of clay.

Zaino and Mint from the usa, also real good.

There are others that are real good. But i cbf thinking at this time.

Dont go for a cheapo clay, say from super cheap, they're usually a chinese poly clay, which differ in quality to above, as in, wont take off contaminates (stick to the clay/pick up), will end up dragging it along, and you end up marring your paint.

Clay magic.

Waxit for cheap (SAU discount)

Carcareproducts for range.

Waxit just brought in a whole new batch of claymagic.

Dont use a quick detailer as lube, use the lubricant made for one. like one included in claymagic kit below. Generally because it contradicts to what you're doing. Quick detailers usually have a sealant in it. When claying, you're trying to remove stuff, not seal it in.

Claymagic kit: http://www.waxit.com...uemart&Itemid=1

^ Split the clay into 4. Put 3 in the sealed bag provided. and the 1 that you use, store it in sandwich ziplock bag, spray a bit of the lube inside bag when storing.

As someone said, as soon as you drop one, throw it away, or you'll just end up marring your paint.

Google two bucket wash, use ph natural shampoo, so it doesn't eat away the wax/sealant that you have already applied.

If you already have some sort of old wax, claybar can remove it, but i tend to use something like Mint APC diluted down to 1:60 (bottle recommends 1:40-80), that'll get most of the wax off without harming the paint.

Dont use any type of shammy, (well i prefer not to, especially on dark car, mainly because of marring) Get something like a waffle weave towel. Super soft, stupidly absorbent.

perfect..thanks man

Have used clay a heap of times and never left any marks. Always do it in an up and down motion and never in circles.

Ensure you use the correct lubricant, and the more the better.

Also when storing it I usually get a small Tupperware container to keep it in, and spray some of the lube onto it to keep it moist.

50 shades of clay......lol

depending how contaminated you're paint is depends on the level clay you need - eg for a car that's sat outside most its life, living under a eucalypt, will probably need a heavier clay to really do a proper decon

but with the heavier grade clay, you'll most likely marr the paint... not a huge deal as if you're needing to use a heavy clay, you're most likely needing to polish it as well.

the finer grade clay, yes you should be able to get away without marring the paint, but it's still very easy to do if you're not checking the clay often. Something that hasn't been mentioned is that you need to constantly keep folding the clay in-on-itself so you have a fresh surface regularly.

In a pinch, you can use a pH neutral car shampoo diluted down, but some shampoos will have a greater detrimental effect on the clay bar than a dedicated lube will. personally i use FI's Clay bars... their fine grade clay is much finer than the blue clay magic.

The other really important thing to do after a claying is to give some sort of protection, wax or sealant. But you need to clean the car REALLY well after as clay residue is not going to help your LSP out at all. I use FI's Cleanse at the end (after a wash) to cut through any remaining residue, but really get all the clay residue off very thoroughly before moving onto the LSP.

Another tip is to put your piece of clay in a bowl of warm water before you start, just for a little, so it's then nice a pliable.

all this info is good, i never new how technical it can be..because i washed, clay bar with quick detailer, wash again with normal maguires shampoo. then cut and polish, then polish , then hand wax and came out absolute mint!

so maybe it can come out even better?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
×
×
  • Create New...