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I've owned this car since it was purchased brand new and its a regretful sale. With a new house being build plus a 2nd child on the way, 1 luxury item had to go.

Regularly serviced with full logbook history. Oil changed every 5000kms. Brand new Brembo front brake rotor & pads as well as a full set of tyres fitted less then 1000kms ago. Car has never seen the 1/4mile or tracked.

Year

- 2009 5sp Manual GSR

Power mods

- Forced Performance Evo Red Turbo (ported & upgraded 25psi actuator)

- Forced Performance Turbo High Flow Oil Supply line

- Forced Performance Turbo Inline Oil Filter

- Forced Performance Turbo Gaskets set

- HKS Aluminum Turbo Intake Pipe

- Cosworth Highflow Airfilter

- Grimspeed 3Port Boost Solenoid

- Works upgraded BOV

- ARP Head Studs

- BC 272/272 Camshaft

- BC Valve Springs

- BC Titanium Valve spring retainers

- AMS Fuel Rail Kit

- DW 1000cc Injectors

- MAP/AEM Fuel Pressure Regulator Kit (with gauge)

- BLAQOPS Fuel Pump Upgrade Kit with E85 Safe Lines

- Walbro 255 Fuel Pump

- Depo Racing 3inch Upper & Lower Intercooler piping Kit

- Custom 3.5inch Bar & Plate Intercooler

- Ultimate Racing 3inch Turbo Back Twin Exhaust (inc dump pipe, 100cel highflow cat)

Handling mods

- Swift Spec-R lowered sports springs

- Cosco Strut Brace

- Rota Grids 18 x 9.5 +20 (with 265/35/18 rubber)

Interior mods

- HKS Type-1 Turbo timer

- LC-1 Wideband & Gauge

Exterior mods

- Mitsubishi USDM Door Window Visors

- Mitsubishi USDM Side Number Plate Mount.

- ARC Carbon Air Duct

Engine mods fitted by

- Tyron at Fortitude Valley Ultra tune (former NA Autosport Mechanic)

Tune

- Dual Map tune(98Oct & E85)

Power @ Wheels

- 98Oct: 280kw

- E85: 315kw

Price $47000. All reasonable offer will consider.

Pics:

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Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412143-evo-x-gsr-315kwwheels/
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    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
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