Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey...

I'm bored at work, so I might post something up kinda useful.

I was aiming for a mediocre audio setup, and didn't want to spend big coin on audio wiring. I ended up settling for Stinger 6 Channel RCAs ($55 from eBay US, delivered) and some 5 core trailer light wire ($12 delivered off eBay AU).

No point spending massive coin on cabling for just Vifa speakers & Jaycar Precision speakers.

So here goes...

If you ask why I used duct tape? it is because it's not easy to cable tie down flat cable. Also the headunit wiring done by the previous owner was "ok-ish" so I left it as is, just chopped the speaker lines up and connected it to the trailer wire. 5 cores, 4 for speakers, 1 for remote. Works a treat!

I know, it's a crappy 1x preout deck, will be changed soon after my trip :)

IMG_3340_zpsf86095c0.jpg

IMG_3339_zpsebb0d1e1.jpg

IMG_3401_zps701cfc20.jpg

IMG_3402_zps23d5cad6.jpg

IMG_3403_zps41178dea.jpg

IMG_3404_zps2d53ac62.jpg

IMG_3405_zps5238de47.jpg

IMG_3406_zps7ee89b7e.jpg

IMG_3407_zpsbb73d56f.jpg

IMG_3408_zps62d55caf.jpg

IMG_3409_zps7930b1b6.jpg

Edited by johnnilicte

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...