Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've just encountered a similar problem to this with my S2. Power steering seems to be heavier than normal but it's a constant not intermittent problem. HICAS is plugged in and no lock bar or dash lights. I'm going to check fluids soon but I'm guessing it's a pump issue or the speed sensor?

I've just encountered a similar problem to this with my S2. Power steering seems to be heavier than normal but it's a constant not intermittent problem. HICAS is plugged in and no lock bar or dash lights. I'm going to check fluids soon but I'm guessing it's a pump issue or the speed sensor?

Check your fluids first there should be a light on your dash unless the globe has already been taken out. Has your car got an aftermarket steering wheel? By memory my was low fluid or the pump

Edited by paul_psi

Ah OK, no my steering wheel is a tired looking stock one haha, no dash light on when car is running but I'll check the fluids when I get some daylight tomorrow, otherwise I'm guessing its the pump on its last legs :(

Its strange because I had aftermarket steering wheel on my car and the hicas light would come on when id go over 100kph roughly and didnt go out till I turnd the car off then once I put the bar in the light was on all the time when I put the bar in I also put coilovers tie rods lower control arms ect so it went straight on a tow truck to pedders and the aligned it all for me and they fould the no power steer problem and they told me it was the pump or electrical I drove around for a couple days before I checked the fluid to find it was bone dry I topped it up had power steering again but driving it with no fluid must had wrecked the pump so when I changed it everything was fine just the hicas light and when I put the gtr dash in I just took the globe out im not sure if having a microtech or any aftermarket computer makes a differance

Hey guys new to forum and I was just curios due to my car has a lock out bar (not lock out kit) and my car still has hicas ecu plugged in and all I have done also is remove dash bulb and still retain factory sexy and I have never had an issue and have never had to do what blk94r33 did to fix he's issue, but in saying this my mates 33 power steering pump works on start up but stops working when you start to drive, he has lock out bar and ecu is still plugged in but has this power steering issue

Any advice will be very great full and both cars are S1 33 sedans

Sent from my iPhone using SAU Community

Does both you and your friends car have abs? Because the hicas ecus are different apparently and that may be why. Also does your friends car rev slightly when turning the wheel when stopped? Because if so it could be the speed sensor for the power steering, its working when stopped but not when moving? I am an amateur myself so I am just spit balling here, perhaps the experts on here can shed some light.

Hey dude both our cars are series 1 which don't have abs, andim not sure if it revs higher when u turn steering wheel, and speed sensor what does this have to do with power steering issues, but I was told by him that he's speedo has stopped working and at same time that's when he realised power steering was not working, but I've read up and not really finding anything about speedo affecting the power steering due to the power steering lines have one solenoid which is controlled via hicas ecu and as I said all my loom n hicas ecu is plugged in and works mint no steering problems and he's is same yet steering issues could it be he's speedo is f**ked and if yes please explain as to in like confused to y it would

My best guess is something to do with the busted speedo, as I've read on these forums that the sensor which controls how stiff the power steering is at which speed, is usually to blame for a problem like that, especially seeing as it works to begin with but soon stops once you start driving. I reckon fixing the speedo will fix the power steering too. Good luck!

  • 6 months later...

Sorry to bring this alive again but THANK YOU SO MUCH SEVERE!!!
Joined up to SAU just to say thanks you to severr33
This solved my 12 month problem of no power steering. Tried so many other things (besides Hicas Ecu replacement)
But now that ive done this i can rule out the Hicas ECU. Solder those wires back together and try order one somewhere and hopefully it will fix it.
My forearms thank you again.

  • 2 years later...

Hi all i tried the method of connecting pin 5 to pin 14 by simply unplugging the HICAS ecu, then getting a small wire and bridging those 2 sockets on the plug.

To my surprise it actually turned on my ignition and dash as if i had turned my key to 'accesories'. (my key was NOT in the car)

I started the car and the power steering was uneffected by this method.

Is the pin relating to the power steering solenoid in a different hole?

  • 4 years later...
On 12/23/2013 at 6:25 PM, blk94r33 said:

14 months on still functioning 100% and i've had no problems with any steering components.

Hi Paul, reviving an old thread here (hopefully).

Just wanted to check in and see if after all this time if you still never had any issues with the steering?

On a side note, does anyone know which pin is the speed input into the HICAS ECU?
According to the wiring diagram for the HICAS ECU, pin I see that pin 12 says "Engine Speed" and pin 31 goes to the "ECM", 'Data link connector" and "Vehicle speed signal (in meter)", but I'm not sure which is the input. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...