Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone, :action-smiley-069:I just joined the forum. (I hope i posted this in the right area.)

So, my dad and I are looking into a buying a R34 Skyline sedan. (Dream car) It will be our family second car, and a semi-project car, to do a few mods on, quality time with dad. (thinking about buying from edward lees), and we were told that we get either a manual AWD or RWD. My question is for a NA car, (so i can drive it l's) which would be better, the AWD or the RWD. (Please give a reason why you think either one is better). Also for the AWD, is it like the GTR Attessa, or is it permeant AWD. And please correct me if im wrong, but the AWD version is the GT-Four and the RWD version is Gt, GT-V.

Any other information about either cars will be appreciated.

Thankyou

Josh

http://www.cars-directory.net/specs/nissan/skyline/2000_8/

Its going to come down to what you will want out of the car later on down the track.

Non turbo versions are a bit boaty and sluggish.

The above link gives you all the info you need on the differences in model types.

25GT - Non turbo model with non turbo options.

25GT - Non turbo model with turbo options.

25GT-FOUR - AWD variant.

Good luck, I've fallen in love with the R34 but would very much rather a turbo version.

If it were me - I'd go for a GT-FOUR, stick out your L's/P's and when ready, drop in a Stagea NEO 25DET. Quality project, low difficulty, and you'll get to know a lot more about the car piecing it all together.

You could always go 26 if you're more adventurous :devil:

Go the GT-FOUR. They're all non turbo, so it's good for your L's/P's and then gives you room to modify and learn while you're at it.

The AWD system is and works the same as the GT-Rs, although the GT-R may have different diff ratio's (I know this is the case with R32s).

Keep in mind that AWDs are heavier than their RWD variants, and that the GT-FOUR will have the same running costs as a GT-R (extra diff, transfer case, etc) without the GT-R performance, so you're inclined to get onto the performance mods/engine swap as soon as you can :P

4-door R34 GT-FOUR with RB26DETT, wolf in sheep's clothes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...