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Well problem solved, here are some comparison pics of the new and old. As you can see it must be an updated part the old wiring clipped straight on though, so happy to have this annoying problem fixed!

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An oil leak is one of the most tipical thing to go wrong with car.. Its also a challenge to find thge leak coming from.. and once you find the leak, getting it fix can mean trip either taking a trip to your machanic to burn hole in your wallet OR repairing it yourself.. Its upto you.. Its best if you can fix it by yourself..

i can provide suggestion regarding fixing this problem..

1.Place your car up on an elevated ramp so you can check under the car for the oil leak source. Let your motor cool down before doing any inspecting under the hood.

2.Look under the hood of your car first to scope out any leaks around the engine block or the pipelines. Check your valve cover to see if it’s wet with oil.

3.Inspect the oil pan under the car with a flashlight to see if oil is leaking around the gasket. The oil pan is usually located directly under the motor (see "Warnings" section of this article), is dark-colored and looks like a pan. If the oil pan's gasket is moist with oil, it means there's a leak there and the gasket will need replacing.

4.Prepare to do some repairs on your own by draining all the oil from your car before taking on the repair of either the valve cover or oil pan gaskets.

5.Use a ratchet wrench with a 12-inch socket extension to remove the spark plugs from the cover of the valve. Grasp the breather hoses from the valve cover fittings and pull them out. They pull out easily.

6.Take a 10-mm socket wrench and remove all the bolts that hold down the valve cover. Set all the bolts in a safe place where they won’t get lost.

7..Remove the valve cover from the engine block by prying up on it. It should come off easily, although pieces of the gasket sticking to the rim of the valve cover may start falling off, depending on how old it is. Do not let any of it fall and stick on the engine block.

8.Cut the gasket off the rim of the valve cover using a razor blade if need be. Sometimes the gasket will peel of easily, and other times it won't. It can potentially mean an hour or more scraping around the edge to get the gasket completely off the rim.

9.Apply some high-temperature silicon sealant around the rim before sticking on your new gasket. This helps the new gasket adhere better around the rim and when placing it back on the engine block.

10.Place the new gasket on the rim with any strong adhesive. Put the valve cover back on the engine block once the adhesive dries and the gasket is firmly on the rim. Be sure the 10-mm bolts you took off earlier are back in place and on tight. Stick the breather hoses back into the valve cover fittings.

11.Use a degreaser to clean off any residue of oil or grease around the body of the engine block before finishing and closing the hood of your car.

12.Go back under your propped up car to prepare removal of the oil pan and replacement of its gasket.

13..Remove the 10-mm bolts from the oil pan, as you did with the valve cover. Pry the oil pan off your car’s chassis by carefully pulling down in a straight direction. Be extremely careful removing the oil pan because oil residue will be in the pan and can potentially spill right into your face during removal. Wear some protective glasses if you don’t have a steady hand.

14.Scrape the old gasket around the oil pan’s rim with a razor blade, as you did with the old gasket on the valve cover. Clean around the rim and apply sealant again as with the valve cover.

15.Stick the new gasket on around the oil pan rim with a strong adhesive, as with the valve cover. Put the oil pan back into place by re-tightening the 10-mm bolts once again.

16.Fill your car with new oil and drive it around to make sure you’ve fixed all leaks. Do these repairs again in the future to save yourself having to go to a car repair shop and getting an expensive bill for a simple fix-it job.

Edited by David William

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