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  1. Subaru STI seats driver and passenger (will need a clean) 2x slight rips in passenger seat less than 5mm $250 for both
  2. Subaru STI drive shaft x2 $150each
  3. Subaru WRX manual drive shaft x? $130 each
  4. Nissan skyline r33 series 2 headlights left hand passenger x2 $200 each
  5. 1991 Toyota Soarer Jz230 taillights left & right $60 each
  6. Subaru STI gc8 left and right hand indicators $40 both
  7. Nissan 300zx Nismo vg30DE plate clutch (twin??) $500
  8. Subaru STI gc8 front sway bar (maybe??) $100
  9. Nissan skyline r33 auto turbo cluster x2, 191896 $50, 53696 $90
  10. Nissan skyline r34 auto turbo cluster x1, ???kms $90
  11. Nissan skyline 300zx cluster manual x2 144411, 9848
  12. Mazda rx7 series 4-5 taillights $70each
  13. Mazda rx7 series 5 taillights (cracks in drivers side) $70 both
  14. Mazda rx7 series 6 complete rear taillights and garnish (crack in garnish) &200 for all
  15. Toyota Jzx90 L & R taillights $80each
  16. Toyota AE11 levin L & R taillights 80each
  17. Nissan S14 headlights (left and right) $60 each
  18. Nissan 300zx headlights (left and 2x right) $100 each
  19. Nissan skyline r32 taillights $60 each
  20. Nissan S14 taillights x 6 $60 each
  21. Nissan S13 taillights (left and right) @70 each
  22. Nissan S14 Indicators (2x left, 1x right) $30 each
  23. Nissan z32 200zx 2x left tail lights $50 each
  24. Nissan z32 300zx 2x centre garnish $80 each
  25. Nissan 180sx taillights 2x left, 2x right $70
  26. Nissan 180sx centre garnish x3 $80
  27. Nissan skyline r33 front bumper lights $40 each
  28. Nissan skyline r33 taillights 2x left, 2x right $50 each
  29. Mazda rx7 suspension set $300
  30. Nissan skyline r33 rear coilovers and aftermarket fronts $300
  31. Mazda rx7 strut braces rear and front $80 each
  32. Mazda rx7 body braces series 4/5 $200
  33. Nissan skyline r32 strut braces (front) $60 each
  34. Nissan skyline r34 strut braces front $70
  35. Toyota Jzx90 strut brace??
  36. Unknown strut brace (front & back)?? Gtr??
  37. Nissan skyline GTR centre gage cluster $60
  38. Nissan 300ZX aluminum bonnet small dints $120
  39. R32 gts-t bonnet cut to look look like a gtr one $100

I have photos of everthing and will up load tonight, Please PM me for more details

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    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
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