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Modifications to Date:

Engine:

*P11 SR20VE

*SR20DE ECU with Nistune Board

*Custom 3" Aluminium Intake with Custom Pod Box

*2.5" Exhaust Magnaflow Mufflers, SSAC Headers

*Polyurethane Solid Engine Mounts

*N1 Cams

*Cam Gears

*Greddy MSS Switching the cams

*Tuned at Insight Motorsport at 125kw atw

Gearbox/Drivetrain:

*Nismo 1.5 way LSD

*Excedy Ceramic Button Clutch

*TWM Short Shifter

*PAR Flywheel

*Hydraulic Clutch

Brakes/Handling:

*BC BR Coilovers

*Whiteline Adjustable Rear Sway Bar

*R33 GTST 4 pot calipers

*N16 Pulsar Hubs

*R33 GTST DBA T - Slot rotors

*EBC Greenstuff Pads

*Cusco 3 Point Rear Body Brace

Wheels/Tyres:

Enkei RPF01 16x8 +38

Kumho KU36 215/45 R16

Future Mods:

*ITB's

*13.5:1 Compression

So I've finally got off my arse and decided to make an intro thread, ive been on this forum for a couple of years, bought my N15 SSS in Feb 2008 lol now i cant get rid of it, the modification bug has bitten me hard.

I started off with a bog stock N15 SSS, with a full service history, previously 2 female drivers.

Still being a red P plater at the time image was fairly important (LOL)

Here's a picture of what it looked like the day i picked it up:

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So..

Id had the car about 6 months and i decided to start looking for some rims and some lowered springs, I decided on a set of Osaka Zeus wheels 17x7 +42 offset, very conservative, your typical Bob Jane T Mart wheels, they did the job.

Then a week or 2 later i purchased some Pedders Sports Ryda lowered springs and brand new KYB shocks. This was a huge mistake, the ride was horrible, but those springs stayed on the car for a while.

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I started getting a bit curious as to how much more power and exhaust would give me, (i have a fair few other mates with Pulsars) not planning to do any other "engine modifications" and wanting to keep noise to a minimum i decided to go for a full 2" mandrel bent system from Liverpool Exhaust. ROAD TRIP!!

They did an awesome job on the exhaust, got it dynoed at a Volkswagon Dyno Day (a few other mates love their VW's) just after i got it done and it pulled a healthy 93kw atw. I was stoked.

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I wanted the pulsar to handle again, so i bought and installed a Whiteline Adjustable Swaybar. I have to admit, 99% of people on the forum recommend these, and they are all right, the handling difference was noticable straight away. Alot more turn in, alot less body roll, all round just a really great modification.

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But then I started getting bored yet again, I was notified by Dean, a mate of mine that a member on this forum was selling a pair of Tomei Poncams and tomei cam gears. Those cams where mine :)

Once the cams arrived Dean and myself couldn't wait to get them bolted in, they were in in no time at all, both coming from mechanical backgrounds.

The cams were awesome fun! But then i just wanted more again...

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To amend the ride quality and enhance the handling of my little pulsar i decided to purchase a set of BC BR Coilovers from JustJap, these were easy to install, very straight forward and the ride quality was instantly transformed, alot smoother than lower springs and KYB shocks, thats for sure.

I ended up purchasing a 1.5 way Nismo LSD from GC Corp, and an SR20VE from Kiwi. While i was waiting for the engine to arrive i was doing as much research as i could about the engine conversion and stumbled across a guy selling a SR20DE ECU with a Nistune board, so i bought that. There was also a Greddy MSS on Ebay, knowing how rare they are i snapped it straight up.

The engine arrived and there was alot of excitement, due to lack of space at my house i ended up doing it at another forum member/mates place the conversion went smoothly thanks to Dean for the assistance.

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So the engine was finally in, wired up and running.

A few weeks later Dean had bought another forum members old DET pod box, i borrowed it off him and got one of my sheety mates to knock one up out of 3mm aluminium, it looks great. Then i decided to make up a 3" CAI for the VE, just to help it breathe a bit more. Being able to make aluminium stick with a TIG welder certainly made it a fair bit easier :P

With the intake done the next obvious thing was to do something about the exhaust. With the AUD being reasonably high I jumped onto the Summit Racing website and ordered a new 200 cell highflow cat, 1x 16" resinator and a rear muffler, all magnaflow, all stainless steel.

And off i went to Liverpool Exhaust again, being impressed by their workmanship last time. Yet again they did an amazing job.

A short while after the engine was in, i had the rear main start leaking. Yes it was replaced when i did the conversion.

So another box out job, whilst the box was out i installed a 4.1kg PAR flywheel and Exedy Ceramic button clutch. What a difference!

About 12 months went by and i was content with how the car was going, then i got the itch for more power. Time for the N1 cams! With the N1 cams and Tomei cam gears sourced and ordered i played the waiting game, but not for long.

In the mean time i decided that i wanted to do a hydraulic clutch conversion and also upgrade the brakes to R33 GTST items.

At the time i was looking at hydraulic clutches a full kit came up for sale in Newcastle! Talk about timing. So with that snapped up all i had to do was get the brakes sorted. This didnt take long, with rotors ordered, calipers bought and rebuilt and hubs bought, redrilled and new bearings installed and new cams and cam gears in my shed i was ready to get to work.

The end result... an awesome dailey driver/track hack.

After i got the car tuned it felt ALOT quicker, it was running very very rich in the top end, which Scott sorted out for me.

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And the tune results:

Rev Limiter set to 8300, makes power until 8000rpm

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The R&D i did with the R33 brakes:

Well i've been doing some R&D to do with the R33 GTST brakes and the N15 SSS wheels. Ive found that the wheels will clear, all they will need is a 20mm spacer :)

*Note the rotors i have in the photos are not R33 GTST items, they are 300ZX.

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Clearance:

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Also I decided to take some pictures of the how the car sat before i bought some new wheels...

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Edited by TimmyMA70

Hydraulic Clutch Parts:

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I have the rest of the GTiR clutch pedal box, i just pulled it apart for cleaning :) I've just gotta get a braided line made up.

Also another item :)

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Brake Kit Bolted On:

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When i bought my new wheels:

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From the top:

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From the front:

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WSID results:

A mate of mine Dean has another N15 SSS with a SR20DET in it T2871R turbo, putting out about 190 FWKW. I was stoked to see there wasn't much difference considering the power difference.

...............Tim................................ ..Dean

R/t...........0.484...............................0. 225

60'...........2.346............................... 2.585

330..........6.207...............................6 .448

1/8...........9.363...............................9. 385

MPH..........77.45...............................8 5.41

k/mh........124.64..............................137. 45

1000........12.059..............................11 .910

1/4..........14.318.............................14.000

MPH.........98.54...............................10 7.74

k/mh........158.59..............................173. 39

That was my best time out of 2 runs. I'd never been to the drags before so it was a bit of an experience. My car wasn't really setup for it. It was running 3 degrees of neg on the front from the Shift Track day, 40psi in the tyres and full street trim. Next time i'll amend all these things and hopefully run a bit better time :)

Well here they are Enkei PF01's 15x8 +35

These will be my track wheels.

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Clearance on R33 brake caliper

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So i bought new wheels and tyres for an upcoming track day:

I put my PF01's on today with the Advan A048 225/50/15 tyres on them...

Well i'll let the pictures do the talking:

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And here is my Sparco Pro 2000 :)

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Thanks guys,

This car will never be a dyno queen, but i'm slowly building it to be a good all rounder.

Thanks for looking :)

Ryan, yeah it was really bad with the lowered springs. That was my reason at first to buy coilovers.

Its still a firm ride, but i'd prefer it to handle than to be driving a lounge chair :P

  • 2 weeks later...

looking good mate, if your gonna keep the carpet out get some dry ice pellets and strip the deadener out and paint the floor out, will look a million bux.

a pic of my datsun with the floor painted out, looks great in person

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  • Latest Posts

    • That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
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