Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I need some advice . I have a 32 that I love almost like a pet. I've heard that 32's go the fastest. But my car is very slow off the mark. There is a big gain in power as boost kicks in.

So what do I need to do to have similar initial power to an R33. And where do you start. I thought of getting a big 31/2 inch exhaust the other day (for stuff to do) but then wasn't sure wether that is now or later. At the moment the car is stock. I know a electronic boost control (and intercooler ) gives better boost, but what about before boost kicks in?

With the exhaust, will I find that too drony? I want to be able to hear my exhaust when I drive. Don't want to get a three inch to be safe then be unhappy with it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41315-what-mods-first-for-r32/
Share on other sites

r32 gtst is the slowest gtst but r32 gtr is the fastest gtr

the first things to do are exhaust in air filter

with an exhaust get a 3"front/dump pipe, high flow cat and a good cat back exhaust

these are the first things most people do to cars

R32 GTSt is a great car but not the best.Also applys for the R32 GT-R>

for you id get a catback exhaust 3" or something just as good,FMIC,boost controller and smack it to 11psi.

its prob the best and cheapest power gain. check out www.modyourcar.com - maybe has a .au , they are the cheapest around i suppose for FMIC.

If you put on a 3" cat-back and POD, the boost will natural spike to about 12PSI (speaking from experience)... but because it's only a 2L engine it's gonna feel slow off boost any way man... (unfortunately)... Go a full 3" turbo-back exhaust with a nice muffler (not a cannon) and it will sound nice and won't drone....

I think you can get cams and gears to change the ratio's and make it feel a lil better down low and spool up a tiny bit quiker?... not sure though, just going off what i've heard there....

If you put on a 3" cat-back and POD, the boost will natural spike to about 12PSI (speaking from experience)... but because it's only a 2L engine it's gonna feel slow off boost any way man... (unfortunately)... Go a full 3" turbo-back exhaust with a nice muffler (not a cannon) and it will sound nice and won't drone....

I think you can get cams and gears to change the ratio's and make it feel a lil better down low and spool up a tiny bit quiker?... not sure though, just going off what i've heard there....

Your right boost might spike and also you are also right again , if you get some GTR cams in there it will go abit harder!

Hi, I have a r32 gts-t also that feels ok for my needs although I want to make it faster.

I have a 3" front pipe, 3" high flow cat, 3 1/2" cat back exaust, blitz front mount ic, bleed valve set to 13 psi, bosch 044 fuel pump, exedy single plate clutch, chipped and re-mapped standard ecu.

I have timed it wit a g-tec 0-100 and got 5.2 secs although I have never run it down a quarter. It has 158.8 rw kws at the moment.

In the future I want to upgrade the turbo to a hks 2535 and 550cc injectors and hopefully break into the 200 rw kw mark.

Hope that helps

:)

take it easy

Mark

to get down low response cams and cam gears would do the trick... most RB's are pretty laggy anyway so instead of taking off slow rev to 3grand and drop the clutch. works wonders :)

lol... does do wonders doesn't it.... I did that before i got the new tyres, was an AWESOME launch and the bloke behind me said i laid rubber all though 1st and second and recons it looked unreal....

I don't find the RB26 laggy... although, i don't think i've driven anything more powerfull... so maybe you have a good point there...

Thanks for confirming my statements too guys, I was worried i was wrong and'd get flamed.... lol

Well what I have done ($183.90 worth of mods... got cheap/free stuff but) the car already had an exaust, no dump pipe but, a bigger fuel pump, and a nice big filter. So, so far all that I have done, bleed valve set to about 12psi 13-14psi on a cold nite (going to be checked again soon with winter) bit of 3 1/2inch pipe for cold air. Oil catch can, and a mallpasi rising rate fuel reg. We first did the boost, that made a bit of a diff, but being summer at the time didnt notice it too much, then cold air, that made a nice difference. And then last nite the mallpasi, that really did the job, it feels really nice. And my car is heaver than an R32 GTST, and I still just walk on a number of them (far from all of them but :( ) Hope that helps.

I still have the stock cooler also.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
×
×
  • Create New...