Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Since I lunched 2 pistons on the dyno, I'm up for fresh internals.

I'm not going for anything too crazy: the car was running about 420awhp on N1 turbos, before the rear turbo let go.

Since then, I fitted stainless exhaust manifolds, Greddy inlet kit, Z32 afms and HKS GTSS turbos. It was during tuning this setup that the engine let go. Luckily, the head remained undamaged, and the block is still in good condition. Given the smallish sizeof the new turbos, I'm looking for early spoo-lup, and a nice healthy chunk of midrange torque: outright power isn't a major concern. The car is never tracked (I'm unable to due to medical issues),so is 100% street driven.

I'm looking for advice from those with experience on what brands of piston and rods to use, as there seem to be a million different opinions out there, and I have very little experience/knowledge with built engines/internals. I want to keep costs reasonable, but want something that I can rely on to last.

Any help would be appreciated: I figure some of you guys would have seen a bunch of the good/bad/ugly, and its your advice I'm after!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/414257-which-pistons-and-rods-to-use-rb26/
Share on other sites

For that amount of hp spool rods and cp pistons will b plenty reliable. Not badly priced either! You can get a rebuild kit, see the link

http://www.spoolimports.com/spool-engine-rebuild-kits/nissan-rb26dett-rebuild-kit

If ur chasing big power u can't go past nitto

Edited by GTR260

Cheers guys. I have more questions:

At the 600+HP we're planning, there has been some concern that my N1 oil pump won't be up to the job: is this a realistic concern? I'm happy to replace it, but am trying to keep the rebuild costs reasonable, so limiting unnecessary spending...

Also, at this power level, will the crank need to be nitrided? Once again, this is something that I have heard, but am not sure if it is overkill on a mildly modified engine...

Get some billet oil pump gears and stuff them in the stock housing...sorted.

Stock rods could do with ARP rod bolts and resize the big end and check little end. By the time you add it up you may as well go a set of brand new H beams...

Crank is nitrided from factory so is usually good to go as is, just check, grubscrew and balance.

Built Sloane's 32GTRB26 with CP pistons and nitto h beams, puts out 370RWKW and will take more :D

My 32GTR I had built: ACL forgies and spool H beams, just pick your bits and go!!!

I have very good experience with Wiseco, that I used in two RB26 engines. I don't recommend Cosworth, had two sets, and both sets had issue with cracking rings.

Edited by DaanGTR

Cheers guys: looks like it cp pistons, and probably spool rods, arp bearings and studs, 1.5mm oil restrictor, then slap it all together, and hope it doesn't grenade on the dyno this time...

Seriously though, thanks to all for your valuable advice: very much appreciated. I'll let you all know how it goes once its built and tuned...

Stock rods could do with ARP rod bolts and resize the big end and check little end. By the time you add it up you may as well go a set of brand new H beams...

I've heard some of the chinese made rods also need checking/finishing as the tolerances can be a bit sloppy. Does that sound right?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...