Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Recently picked up a set of LMGT4s from n15m0 and looking to respray them to black with bare lip. whats the best way of removing ALL of the paint and respraying it to black? I'm not too keen on sanding since I'd like to preserve the diamond cut lip.

I also heard sandblasting or powder coating will weaken the wheels strength.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/414359-diy-wheel-respray-tips-please/
Share on other sites

+1 mask the lips.

I've done this a couple of times on different set of rims, and it's time consuming if you want to get it right lol.

Basically sanded > primed > base coat > clear coat. Turned out schmick but if I had to do it again, I'd just get it powder coated lol.. though I'm a lazy fuark

there appears to be some kind of fungi growth underneath the clear coat. need to scrub that off somehow.

Are you positive it is under clear?

I suggest you try autosol metal polish either by hand or with a mothers powerball attached to a drill.

Hopefully you are surprised with the results.

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

From my experience of painting my own rims, preparation is the key

Just keep sanding the paint back until you get it real nice and smooth, you only need to take the clear coat off because paint best sticks to paint, or if youve got scuff marks sand it right back to the primer and use filler primer to get it nice and smooth again, then paint, then clear coat.

I got a real nice Gloss black on mine for all 4 rims cost under $40

Mate if scuffs are minimal:

P600 grit wet and dry for sanding back paint, then

P1200 grit wet and dry sand paper for super fine finish

And as Kyle said, preparation is the real key for painting as spray painting is usually the easy and exciting bit.

Edited by Ants

use a nice soft sandpaper, Just enough to add little scratches for the primer to stick on, 2 coats of primer then paint then with a few coats, Depending on the finish use a clear coat or a shiny clear coat

Mine came out looking good for under $50, Though powder coating is much much preferred. Contact Craved coatings

  • 4 months later...

maybe a bit old but powder coating will weaken your wheels. Especially if the temp is above 305 degrees your likely to change the crystals of the metal and create stress concentrators. When done in factory its fine because they test the wheels and have much more control.Not worth risking to your expensive wheels.

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...