Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Recently picked up a set of LMGT4s from n15m0 and looking to respray them to black with bare lip. whats the best way of removing ALL of the paint and respraying it to black? I'm not too keen on sanding since I'd like to preserve the diamond cut lip.

I also heard sandblasting or powder coating will weaken the wheels strength.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/414359-diy-wheel-respray-tips-please/
Share on other sites

+1 mask the lips.

I've done this a couple of times on different set of rims, and it's time consuming if you want to get it right lol.

Basically sanded > primed > base coat > clear coat. Turned out schmick but if I had to do it again, I'd just get it powder coated lol.. though I'm a lazy fuark

there appears to be some kind of fungi growth underneath the clear coat. need to scrub that off somehow.

Are you positive it is under clear?

I suggest you try autosol metal polish either by hand or with a mothers powerball attached to a drill.

Hopefully you are surprised with the results.

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

From my experience of painting my own rims, preparation is the key

Just keep sanding the paint back until you get it real nice and smooth, you only need to take the clear coat off because paint best sticks to paint, or if youve got scuff marks sand it right back to the primer and use filler primer to get it nice and smooth again, then paint, then clear coat.

I got a real nice Gloss black on mine for all 4 rims cost under $40

Mate if scuffs are minimal:

P600 grit wet and dry for sanding back paint, then

P1200 grit wet and dry sand paper for super fine finish

And as Kyle said, preparation is the real key for painting as spray painting is usually the easy and exciting bit.

Edited by Ants

use a nice soft sandpaper, Just enough to add little scratches for the primer to stick on, 2 coats of primer then paint then with a few coats, Depending on the finish use a clear coat or a shiny clear coat

Mine came out looking good for under $50, Though powder coating is much much preferred. Contact Craved coatings

  • 4 months later...

maybe a bit old but powder coating will weaken your wheels. Especially if the temp is above 305 degrees your likely to change the crystals of the metal and create stress concentrators. When done in factory its fine because they test the wheels and have much more control.Not worth risking to your expensive wheels.

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...