Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, im dropping a RB25DET Neo into my R32 and i just have a few questions. What Gearbox and clutch would i best using?

R34 Neo Gbox with a push/pull converter or R33 gts-t gearbox. Also are the clutches different for these? I jumped on the exedy site and it reccomends a different clutch for each box.

Also, can i use my current driveshaft but get it shortened to accomodate for the longer gearbox?

Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/414622-rb25det-neo-what-gearbox-and-clutch/
Share on other sites

Doesn't matter which you use. As long as the clutch suits the gearbox, you're gold.

The only consideration is that it is probably easier and cheaper to get clutches for the earlier boxes. I suppose the other consideration is that you migth be able to find a younger R34 box that hasn't been flogged to death (because 99% of R33 ones certainly have been).

Oh, and you must obtain the front portion of an RB25 gearbox's tailshaft to get the appropriate yoke section. You cannot use the skinny litle R32 front half. You take the back half of your R32 shaft and the front half of an R33 shaft to Hardy Spicer and they will look at the two pieces and say "RB25 into R32?" and you say yes and they take the pieces. Seriosuly, they have seen so many people walk in carying those bits that they can tell from 20 feet away. They don't even need you to take any measurements in the car. They know exactly how long shit has to be.

Edited by GTSBoy

Hey mate, thanks for the info :)

I can get an R34 Manual box cheapish, but its a pull type, and im putting it into an R32 which is a push type setup yes?

It comes with an OS Giken pull to push converter though, so does that mean i can run the gearbox with no worries in the 32 or will i not be able to use it? Os Giken says "This converts the Pull type gearbox to the Push version.Push clutches are more easily sourced". So in theory it should bolt straight onto the neo, and i can use a push type cluch (ie 33 clutch) and i wouldnt have to change any of the clutch lines in the 32.

A little confused about all this stuff haha >.<

You're overthinking it. It's very simple. If you have a push type gearbox, then you need a push type clutch. Same with pull type. Doesn't matter which chassis it is in, as the slave cylinder bolts to the gearbox, not the car. The only hassle might be having to sort out a different clutch hose if you swap push to pull or pull to push (relative to the chassis' original clutch type - because the slave cylinder ends up in a different orientation and the old hose possibly won't reach.)

The push-pull converter does exactly that. It allows you to fit a push clutch into a bellhousing intended for a pull clutch. This frees you from having to find a pull clutch (which can be harder and more exxy), but I'm not sure what it means for the hydraulics in your 32, because I'm not familiar with the kit. You can tap the extra holes in an RB gearbox to mount the other type of slave on there easily enough. The kit might just supply an internal pivot converter and then drill/tap the slave mounting holes, or it might keep the wrong slave on there and do something more tricky inside. Ask the seller for some photos. I've seen the for sale thread on here, so I'm familiar with what he's put up already, and it's not enough to tell exactly what it has.

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...