Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

MAKE SURE YOU HAVE LOW/NO FUEL OR TANK WILL BE TOO HEAVY.

CAR ON JACK/AXLE STANDS or RAMPS IS NEEDED TO GET ACCESS TO EXHAUST COVER.

1a. Pull the fuel pump fuse and start car - it will cut out when fuel is consumed, then disconnect battery

OR

1b. Make sure engine is cold, disconnect battery, undo both fuel hoses in the engine bay slowly so fuel can leak out

OR

1c, undo fuel filter, put on a long temporary hose into a plastic jerry can and turn ignition on to pump fuel out.

2. Remove boot mat, undo 4 screws over fuel pump, lift off cover. Disconnect electrical connectors, disconnect fuel hoses. NOTE THE fuel hose going away from the tank is the pressurised line and needs a good quality screw connector.

3. Under right guard, remove the fuel hose protector plate, then the single screw that holds the filler tube and earth cable.. Loosen off one of the hose connectors so the hose can rotate. Pop fuel lid and push on the centre of the fuel cap - the hose will pop back. Leave fuel cap on.

4. Underneath car, undo the nuts that hold the exhaust muffler pipe heat shielding in place. You probably cant remove this if you have a non-standard exhaust. Leave the exhaust brackets alone.

5. Undo the rear two strap connectors. One is a bolt, the other is a nut, both are 17mm sockets. Use a 12 inch extension bar. Leave the front two straps in place, the straps will flex easily. And one of them is nigh impossible to undo.

6. Drop the tank down and undo the fuel breather tube going back to the car.

7. Tank is now out. Dust it off it will have loads of gravel and dirt on the upper side. Degrease your diff if you want. Remove the heat shield, and remove the filler hose and inside that the metal insert.

8. Put a rag over the hoses still attached to the car, go up to engine side and use a low pressure compressor or your lungs to blow the fuel back out. Then flush with carbie cleaner, and blow out again.

9. Drain remaining fuel, remove fuel tank sender cover, wash with fresh hi-octane fuel, jiggle it and leave it upside down to dry out.

10. Put fuel tank sender cover back on, note that all the rubber seal goes inside the tank.

11. Fit heat shield roughly in place.

12. Reassembly is reverse order, connect breather hose first then lift. Make sure you jiggle the tank to try and get it back in position using straps as a guide. Use a jack on very low pressure to hold it in place. Do each nut/bolt up only a bit at a time to make sure u have it positioned correctly. Make sure you connect the earth strap to the fuel filler tube. Put some fresh fuel in tank, reconnect engine bay, put ignition on to test pressures before finishing up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...