Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For Sale is one used HKS Single Turbo kit to suit Z33, but also fits V35 and PM/PNM35

VQ35de motor only.

Location- Sydney NSW

35665d1152459724-hks-single-turbo-kit-z33-released-z33_kit_img.jpg

This is the HKS picture of the Kit.

XspeedMotorvation07011.jpg

This is how it sits on the motor.

This Kit should be well known to Z and V drivers, there are a few cars getting around with them now, so they are a proven kit.

It consists of:

  • GT3037 HKS ball bearing turbo 56T 1.12 rear - watercooled.
  • HKS GT II 60mm external gate
  • Exhaust manifolds, incl cross over pipe
  • HKS high flow cat converter
  • Intercooler
  • ALL piping from air filter to cat converter incl clamps and silicone joints

I have had this kit installed on my PNM35 stagea for the last 11 months. In that time it has done less than 10,000kms, including two trips to Goulburn for car events, one night (3 runs) at WSID, and basically taking my Mrs to and from work. So it has not done a lot of work. No track days. Boost has not been above 6psi, which for this turbo is tiny. Original markings are still visible on the turbo wheels. There are a few scratches on some of the pipes from installing however they are no really visible once installed. ALWAYS warmed up before use. Turbo doesn't have shaft play or anything a flogged out old turbo would have.

The Kit also comes with extras incl injectors, fuel pump, Uprev MAF, and Boost Tee which I will detail later.

I have modified 3 parts of the kit to fit my car:

1) I do not have the sump that came with the kit - it does not fit the AWD motor so I sold it off. I modified my existing sump to accept the oil return. The buyer has two options - do the same, modify the existing sump pan (which you will receive as a template) OR buy a pan spacer from the US that has a place for a fitting in the side for an oil return. They are easy to get and not very costly ($150)

2) I had the pipe from the turbo to the intercooler modified to suit AWD, as the original one fouled the front driveshaft. While I am pretty sure it will still bolt up to a RWD car, I would have the pipe modified to create better airflow, as the rwd have more space in that area

3) I had the exhaust modified to clear the AWD transfer case. The over all length is exactly the same, however I just had a fabricator insert about a 200mm piece to allow the bend to be more rearwards- you can see this in the photo. The Cat was attached to this pipe. Again - I'm pretty sure it will bolt straight up to the RWD cars, however its not a big job for an exhaust place to modify it if it doesn't.

I will also include:

  • A Set of 6 Deatschwerks (denso) 600cc injectors (plug in for VQ35de) including original flow report. RRP $580
  • An Uprev GT AFM - this re manufactured MAF allows the ECU to read higher levels of boost. If you want to turn the boost up from the gate pressure (4.5psi) you will need a larger AFM. RRP $350
  • A genuine Walbro GSS432 255lph drop in fuel pump in original package RRP$130
  • Turbosmart Boost Tee to adjust boost levels.

So basically all the new owner will need will be an ECU for the kit, which I can point you in the right direction to Uprev or you can source your own.

I will ship at buyers expense - however understand its heavy, large, and there are fragile components. I will do my best to package them if you want it shipping, but I can't be certain it will arrive perfectly. I have only a few of the original boxes.

If you want to have a look at the kit, thats fine. Let me know.

Any questions I will try to answer. Best way to contact me is through PM on the forums I won't always answer my phone - 0431 090-240

I will NOT hold the kit for you, unless you leave a non-refundable deposit. Please sort your money before saying you'll take it. Don't lowball- go and ask a shop for a quote to Turbo your car.

PRICE- $3750 firm.

Stop wasting time on NA mods - this will beat all of them hands down.

Photos to come.

I should also say that the parts in this will bolt on to a VQ25DET, and provide you with the basis for a good powerful car with Ext gate. You'd need to change the rear housing to .83 from 1.12 otherwise it'll be lag city, but I'm just putting it out there.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • 🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
×
×
  • Create New...