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Yeah maybe take it to a tuner and let them check the air to fuel ratios just to make sure.

My stock computer was running 13 psi and never blew a head gasket. Stock tune with stock or close to stock boost shouldn't cause an issue at all.

Wear and tear could be a factor maybe the the person before you gave the car a thrashing

Could have had a hard life like alot of skylines, but strangely enough my bottom end looked really good, and the fact that the head had never been taken off the car or touched before was also a good sign :)

Was thinking of picking up some shell helix hx7 to rum through the car before filling with motul, should be fine running cheaper stuff for that purpose yeah?

Its $20~ odd at super cheap ;) wonder if anybody actually runs that oil ...

I have done it before just to give it a good clean out. Run some shit oil for 100km or so and just don't thrash it at all. Dump that and top up with quality stuff

Right now I have been running penrite 10/30 or 15/30 for about $50 per 5L and the car likes it.

I just change it about every 3-4 thousand ks

Going in for a tune tomorrow, I've got -7s on it.

Still hearing some hissing, horrible noise is gone so was the timing belt. Oil is staying clean.

Just gotta find this vacuum leak. Any pointers or common leak areas?

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  • Latest Posts

    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
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