Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got the good soda blasting media. Now it works much better, i can control it.

It can be used to remove paint and not damage rubber, if its on low pressure and you use it carefully.

Taking paint off plastic without damage is much harder to do, if not near impossible. But you can carefully remove a layer at a time, leaving some primer over the plastic.

Because the new soda flows much better, i can turn the pressure right down (35psi) and it still works. This gives the control needed to clean those bits carefully.

Also theres a lot of work just to clean up and make sure the "skyline" in the rear bar is straight and neat, (how the fk am i going to buff the clear in there?) i might just fill it. Dont really like that kind of thing anyway. Little detail bits and grooves etc, just trap dirt and wax/polish, and only look good if they are all perfectly aligned and stuff. I think ill fill the grooves in the tail light surrounds for the same reasons.

Thinking about how the skirts and pods are just glued to the side of the car. I hate how sht that is and i might rivet or screw them on tight so theres no gap.

post-89755-0-63109500-1394076701_thumb.jpg

Installed a Bosch 040 today, cheers Mik!

What a bitch of a job.. Think next time I have to change a fuel pump im taking it to a shop.. So fiddly in such a confined space.. :angry:

LOL! Sux Dunnit? Loved getting high on fumes, the bruises and the stingy cuts on the arms when I did my 044.

I just bought a Walbro GSS342... Fun will begin again. :wacko:

funny all that talk on fuel pumps :yes: must be that time of year ...

Walbro 450 ltr/ph, E85 compatible put in today, and only $200 for the pump and kit, cheering !

Fuel pressure gage next. Will make my life easier when doubting the fuel pressure being delivered.

Don't track as you know so Will wait a little while before cooler goes in. Was just hedging bets with this one. May go E85 soon.

Part of the reason I'm changing from Bosch 044 to Walbro GSS342 is the noise I get when the Fuel gets hot as I obviously don't Burn Enough of it.

Dark car, Hot Day, High Flow Rate Bosch = Buzzy Buzzy Bee.

Hopefully the Walbro is a little quieter in the same circumstances.

044 has only done around 10,000ks... Anyone wanna buy it? :D

I had bought a Nismo and handed it to a shop to install.

But looking at it after removing - it has no markings or indication of what sort of pump it is.

So the Nismo may have ended up somewhere with someone else. Too long ago to worry about.

Was noisy priming and when hot ran on, so may also have been a Bosch 044 - was time to go anyway.

Ps. I like your sig pic Rob.

Edited by Sinista32

Deatchwerks are the go for a painless fuel pump install. And they arent loud.

They fit exactly in the cradle and the wires are real good.

Just unsolder the old ones off the tank lid and solder the new ones on. They have the fuel proof insulation and a plug to go in the pump.

That company is cool as they make upgrade bits to fit like oem bits.

Agreed on the DW fuel pumps, a lot quieter than the walbro's..

Today finally got my front fender braces installed after shearing one of the nuts last weekend. Also installed TRD swaybar bushes, so they actually match my swaybars now. On the lookout for a new intercooler...

Edited by Scar

Don't track as you know so Will wait a little while before cooler goes in. Was just hedging bets with this one. May go E85 soon.

Would like to know what kind of cooler you decided on.

You always do a lot of good research on these things.

No real idea yet Mik. See what happens, if anything.

Ideally a CO2 system :D.

Seems to be a number of systems but Cryo is in my opinion best.

Edited by Sinista32

cryo2_diagram.jpg

Some serious gear. Would suit the Sinista. :thumbsup:

Thats the system i can find i think your talking about. I like the air chillers, what a cool idea. And how the leftover gas cools the intercooler is neat.

The others are return line fuel coolers and water/meth injection. Which keep temps under control, but not actually chilling it.

I cant find anything about how long a bottle will last on the CryO2 system, but there is the throttle switch option, which would save heaps of gas.

Seems to be more of a safety for the engine and a small power gain. Worth it for a well built RB26 $$$$$

On a 40 degree day this would be real peace of mind. And would out perform any other turbo car.

You could have a bit of fun with that... put a Nos cover on the bottle and have a purge line.... "Yeah man i got nitrous" :laugh:

Its a modular system, so you get the bits you want.

http://www.designengineering.com/catalog/cryo2-system-components

almost eveywhere else is cheaper, ebay, summit etc, dunno why.

Got Straight home from work and swapped back in my old rear Pedders shocks but with the NISMO springs on. (on the 33)

Passengers rear was leaking and starting to knock and wobble. :verymad:

2 rear shocks with spring change in an hour... Not bad? I think it took an hour and a half last time not including seat removal. :D

Also received an R31 one piece tailshaft in the post. (E-go) overnite from Melbourne. (less than 15 hours after paying for it) :woot:

Now to install...

Nice one Juan. ;)

I noticed a big difference when I put my RDA rotors on the 33 a couple of years ago too.

reminds me... gotta do brake fluid in the Wagz.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...