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I've got the front seats but I don't really want to split the rails from them-noones going to buy standard seats without rails.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Gt Automatic gear box with tailshaft $200

GTT Airconditioner Compressor $100

pair of frot bar orange indicators $40

ABS Unit $150

Carbon canister $20

Carpet $80

Seatbelt (set of 5 with rear buckles)$100

Drivers door $150

Drivers door card (speaker painted silver and handle surround) $20

Passenger door$150

Passenger door card (speaker painted silver and and handle) $20

LHS Rear door card $20

LHS Rear door glass $40

LHS Rear door window switch $10

RHS Reah door card (painted handle silver $20

RHS Rear door $150

Drivers door window/mirror switches, (painted silver) $40

Passenger door window switch (painted silver)$20

Boot lid with spoiler holes$100

Boot lining $50

A Pillars pair (re fabricated) $20

B Pillars Pair $20

RB25DET injectors (115,000 km old) make an offer

RHS Tail light $100

LHS tail light $100

Rear bumper (minor mark will come out with respray) $150

Rear windscreen $100

Hicas computer make an offer

Hicas unit $50

Heater $100

Roof handles set $20

Front steering rack- with crossember and sway bar $300

rear subframe

Diff (has the one ABS sensor- not the one with two sensors $250

Handbrake with cable $80

SRS control box, make an offer

LHS Lower Control arm $50

RHS castor arm $40

LHS castor arm $40

GTT dump pipe make an offer

Rear seat $150

Front seat pair-no seat belt buckles (will sell once they have been dry cleaned to remove some grime- should be done in a week or two) $300

rear reinforcement bar$100

body loom make an offer

headight loom make an offer

fuel flap $20

GT fuel pump make an offer

GTT brake master cylinder and booster $150

mat set $80

brake master cylinder

gtt brake and rotors front and rear

  • 3 weeks later...

Matt can u send me a mob number and il mms u some pics?

Front indicators sold

Drivers side mirror sold

Bump

  • 4 weeks later...

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    • Hi everyone, I have purchased my first GTR and I want to do a single turbo conversion to it. I've been doing as much research as i can and there are a few things that I can find and need to know. I need to run a coolant feed, coolant return, oil feed and oil return for my turbo setup. Here's what I know so far: On the hot side of the rb26 there is coolant feed, oil feed and oil return. Coolant return will be going around the front of the engine to where the thermostat is located. I will need to block off the rear oil return port. I will be running a turbosmart boost solenoid so any of the factory boost stuff wont be needed. Now onto what I don't know: 1. What do I do with the coolant / vacuum hardlines that run around the back of the motor?. 2. What do I block off or loop or move or remove?. I will be running the OEM intake manifold. 3. Is there anything in particular I need to buy for the cold side of the rb26?. I already have the intercooler and pipes sorted. If you have any pictures or information it would be appreciated. Thanks....  
    • The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
    • Intake manifold is not a part of the issue. The turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold. That is easy. But close your eyes and picture the physical situation. That is a T3 flange on the manifold and a T3 flange on the turbo. As long as any new turbo has a T3 flange on the exhaust housing, that exhaust housing will bolt to the exhaust manifold. This places the exhaust housing in the same place as the stock one. But now move your mental attention a little further forward. The location of the compressor housing is set by the length of the turbo's core. The stock turbo had a long core. Let's say that it is..... 100mm long. So that would place the compressor housing 100mm forward of the exhaust housing. But a highflow, might well have a centre core that is shorter. Let's say that it is only 70mm long. Now the compressor housing will be 30mm further back in the engine bay than the stock one. This DOES move the turbo's compressor outlet backwards. It also moves the compressor's inlet backwards. You will very likely have to do some work to both the inlet and outlet piping to make everything connect again. I am not say this to make it out to be a bigger deal than it is. I am just pointing out that "bolt on" is sometimes not quite bolt on. The highflow from GCG that Murray linked above (https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html ) uses a core that is the same length as the stock core, and so does not require this extra work. It will look very much like the stock turbo. No-one uses GTR turbos of any flavour (stock, or aftermarket) in a single turbo application on RB20/25. It's not a thing. Yes, people have been putting on GT3076, GTX3076 (and bigger and smaller versions of those) and G30s (of various sizes) onto RB20/25 since forever. But these are not "bolt on". Everything except the 4 bolts to the exhaust manifold change with these. And genuine Garretts are expensive. Non-gen, like Pulsar, etc, are cheaper, variously as good or nearly as good. But still not bolt on. No-one in the right mind would pay for an HKS turbo. Not in this modern day and age. Well, yes, the GCG highflow. You could ask HG what he can do to make the compressor housing sit in the original location. There are surely others doing highflows around the world. And some of the eBay/Temu ones (as reported by Dose) work and don't die. Bit of a lottery though. I would send your turbo to GCG (here in Oz) to be highflowed if you want a trivial no-extra-work option. But seriously, the work required to change inlet and outlet piping is not that hard. That's a boost control problem, not a turbo problem.
    • Thank you all for the replys 🙂 I know that intake would be different but that is one pipe at it is not that hard to get(custom one). I meant mainly bolt to the stock manifold and the turbo elbow. I looked and many sites/forums but they are just "old" with some old HKS turbos from GT-R i guess? What about some Garrets?  Or any other turbo? Is there even a turbo which i can just bolt on? 😄 And yeah i know about that new HKS but that is like 2000k USD without taxes/shipping in here   Iam getting a touch up tune but my "problem" is that on the "not" hot day iam getting peaks around 0,9 bar...and when it was around 15 Celsious i saw peak around 1 bar which is just too much for stock turbo. And of course turbo is old and i like to get some new one for a piece of mind 🙂 
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