Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I've read there is a test point somewhere in the engine bay where the tacho signal appears. Can someone tell me where it is? I have looked everywhere and cannot see a plug where I'd find this signal.

Thanks.

Mike

Ps. I have a Series 2 R33

Edited by mikep

I've bought an SAAS tacho from Autobarn which might be faulty as it didnt read any revs when I had it connected to the ecu line at the back of the dash, which I had to put back together last night for a trip. For quick testing purposes (so I don't have to rip the dash apart again) I thought I'd use the test point in the engine bay, plus 12v and an earth are easily accessible there too.

Mike

I know the rb30s have one in the engine bay blue wire but havent come across it in the other rbs, guess other options take out the ecu from the kickpanel and try from there since thats pretty easy to get to.

Edited by boostn0199

If it is faulty they say I can't have an exchange until they send it away to the distributer who will confirm the fault, and I only bought it Friday night!! I don't even get any illumination when it's connected to power either..

If it didnt work at the ecu pinout its not going to work at a test wire if there is one, since its from the same pinout. I know the rb30s have one in the engine bay, dont know about the others.

It's more about double checking that I didn't have it wired up wrong. I want to do this double checking, if possible, without pulling the dash apart again.

Mike

Yeah sort of mis read what you were saying at first but as I said in my edited post use it from the ecu and try.

Yeah I'll do that if I can't find this mythical test point, I'd prefer the engine bay, just because of easy access to gnd, 12v and (maybe) the test point.

Mike

are you sure you had it connected to the right wire at the back of the dash? might be worth just accessing the wires at the ecu and hooking up to tacho wire there. a quick search should find you a pinout for the ecu wiring.

are you sure you had it connected to the right wire at the back of the dash? might be worth just accessing the wires at the ecu and hooking up to tacho wire there. a quick search should find you a pinout for the ecu wiring.

Yeah I am. I connected up a portable frequency counter which showed a static reading at idle which gradually increased with the revs. It was also the colour code reported on another SAU thread. In the troubleshooting part of the manual it says to connect the gauge to a 12v source and see if the backlight comes on, well it doesn't. Not only that, you can't set the shift light point, the needle does not move off it's peg.

Mike

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...