mikep

Ended up ordering from JustJap, price was decent at around $10ea and shipping was $25. Seeing as I was going to pay that much for the shipping, I figured I should get my moneys worth and bought the Nismo smoked side indicators lol Anyway, glad I ordered two because the one that was left also disintegrated too 🤦‍♂️ I wasn't looking forward to replacing them because just to see what was going on I had to twist my body in a way no human being is meant to, and I knew it would be worse trying to get hands up there, and might also need a bracket to be removed from the steering wheel. Pro Tip: Forget about removing brackets and having to shove hands up in to spaces they don't fit very well. Get a long flat blade screwdriver, like the longest one you find in sets (the ones that are so massive you always wonder WTF is that even used for) some blu-tac and a really decent bright light. Start the engine, this will allow you to easily push the brake pedal down. Put a decent amount of blu-tac on the flat surface of your new rubber stopper and put that on the end of your flat blade screwdriver. Put the screwdriver and light in the footwell. If you are working on a concrete driveway, get one of those kneeling pads Bunnings sell in the gardening area, your knee's will thank you... Open driver door as far as it'll go, kneel down, turn on your light and push the brake pedal down far enough to give enough clearance between the tab that holds the stopper and the brake switch(es). Carefully pick up the screw driver (so the rubber stopper doesn't fall off) and, using the kind of hand eye coordination you normally reserve for a game of championship darts at the pub, push the screwdriver with the stopper on the end up inside the dash and past the inconveniently placed steering column bracket, aiming the mushroom shaped end for the hole in the brake pedal tab. Once you think you've got it there, push the screwdriver hard so that mushroom shaped end is completely through that hole. Remove the screwdriver and if the stopper isn't on the end, or sitting back on the floor of the footwell, slowly let the brake pedal return to its normal position (I pulled it forwarded a little and held it for 10 sec). Push the pedal back down and slide a finger to where the switches are and pull away the blu-tac and if you can, give each stopper a reassuring push. And you're done. Grab a <insert drink of your choice>, make your mate press the brake pedal while you marvel at the awesomeness of your work at the rear of the car. Oh, and if you're wondering, the side indicators are removed by sliding it towards the front of the car and when its moved as far forward as it will go, slip a fingernail under the edge that's closest to the door and pull it out towards you. No tool needed. Twist the globe holder to remove from the old indicator body. Replace the clear bulb with the orange bulb in the Nismo package, put bulb holder in new clear indicator and twist to lock in and push the indicator gently back in to the panel. Easy.

Nissan Berwick quoted me about $30. JustJap have them for around $10ea

It is an auto, but no cruise control. Was looking at some pics of someone's blog on the topic, and noticed that the second switch isn't installed in his, and that's a manual. On his car they put the switch in the hole furthest away, man I wish that was the one that broke on mine, if you reckon that ones hard to get at, when its closest to the steering column its a nightmare. Anyway, ordered the part from JustJap for about 1/3 what Nissan quoted and it'll be here in a couple of days. So that's a few hours of next weekend accounted for!

Managed to take a good look today, and found the remains of a 15mm round piece and a "mushroom" shaped piece of plastic. Really strange considering I had disconnected the plug from the switch and could see there was still one of these visible. Turns out I should have looked harder. There are TWO switches, and the one I didn't see (its close to the steering wheel column) was missing that stopper. I haven't yet pulled that plug out, it's hard to get to, but i'd say thats the issue. Why two switches though, redundancy? Some other function?

Thanks GTSBoy and all. I figured that disconnecting the switch should kill the lights, but wanted to 100% sure before I start looking for obvious shorts. Trust this weird random crap to happen to me! At least I know what i'll be doing for some of the weekend. Think i'll start by pulling off the interior panels in the boot, looking for shorts and also removing the globes one at a time to see if its a dodgy globe. Probably then disconnect the boot lid stop light.

Hey all. I searched the forum and found plenty of references to worn switches, but I'm not sure this is my issue because when I unplugged the connector from the brake pedal switch the lights remain on, the only way to get them to switch off was to remove the fuse. Can someone tell me if the lights will come on/remain on if the brake light switch is disconnected, like as some sort of safety thing? Otherwise, any ideas where to start looking for the problem? Cheers, Mike

Not exactly random. These guys used to have good rep back then, and early on in the purchase when I asked about updated GPS maps they helped out without any issues. Seems like they've gone downhill in the past few years. I'm used to buying gear from China, haven't had this type of issue before from other suppliers.

Hey everyone, Thought I would post about an unhappy purchase from Erisin (Chinese head unit manufacturer). I bought a head unit from them around two years ago and recently it started playing up. Contacting them has been a nightmare, they ignore email after email and eventually when they did respond, and I provided them with the information they asked, they went silent. So more emails asking them to assist, and finally someone else from the company responds, asks the same info, and then comes back and says they cant provide any assistance because the unit is to old. Nearly $400 and just on two years later I have a piece of junk. Funny thing is, in the email, they suggested i buy a new unit from them. I will buy a new unit, just not from them! Anyway, beware these guys, no after sales support... Mike

Hi guys, Is anyone parting out an R33 S2, I need a new drivers seat as mine is falling apart. I'm in the Illawarra area but willing to travel. Mike

Hi, Creative Studio B.I.M Zeit R 17" Forged alloy wheels Ideal width/offset for R33 Skyline 114.3mm PCD +33 offset No center caps. All three have slight curbing, not bent or bucked, just scratched. These are forged wheels and very light, despite their size and construction. There are actually four wheels, however one has a crack across the width of one of the spokes, and according to the wheel repairer it was taken to cannot be repaired. They have been sprayed matte black, however they need repainting. Mike

Dropped price to $400 ono. Mike

Hi, I've got these listed on ebay, item 251675696397, starting at $500. Creative Studio B.I.M Zeit R 17" Forged alloy wheels Ideal width/offset for R33 Skyline 114.3mm PCD +33 offset No center caps. All three have slight curbing, not bent or bucked, just scratched. These are forged wheels and very light, despite their size and construction. There are actually four wheels, however one has a crack across the width of one of the spokes, and according to the wheel repairer it was taken to cannot be repaired. They have been sprayed matte black, however they need repainting. There is rubber on all four, however one has a nail in it, one is definitely unroadworthy and the other two are probably 40-50%. Mike

Hey guys, I'm listing some wheels on eBay, and wondered if I am able to link to the auction? If not, no biggie, thought i'd ask first... Mike

Hahaha!! Ok, this is looooong overdue, but thanks! Spotted your car heaps of times too, and bumped in to Chris today. We need to catch up for a coffee I work in one of the offices..

Enka, they are 12mm bolts. Mike

Thanks Skud! Mike

Hi Enka, Thanks, thought I would repay the favour to the site, since i've used many of it's guides before I'll get that bolt information for you tomorrow. Mike

Step #1 The cushion is secured in place with two bolts, one on the left and one on the right, remove them. Step #2 Underneath the cushion are two, fairly decent size clips, again, one on the left and one on the right. You can't see them because they are hidden by the base of the cushion, however they aren't hard to find. As you can see from the picture below, they are slightly offset from the position of the bolts you removed in step #1. I found the easiest way to unclip each one was to put a hand either side of the clip, which you can do once the bolts have been removed, and pull straight up. Do this for each clip. Step #3 Now poke the seat belt clasp's through the cut out in the cushion, lift it up and pull it out. There are no other retaining clips or bolts. Step #4 With the cushion now removed, you should be able to see two bolts at the base of the back rest, one on the left, and one on the right, which secure it to the body. Step #5 Once both bolts are removed, you have to left the back rest up, as it sits on three hooks which are fastened to the body of the car, then you will be able to pull it forward and out of the car. When putting it back in, make sure you get it "hooked" in, or the back rest will be free to move. Step #6 To remove the sound deadening material, gently twist and pull the large, flat, plastic clips. Unfortunately it looks like someone had just tried to yank mine out without realising it was held in place with clips, so it was butchered. Step #7 You will now have an empty rear section of the car, where you can pass cables through or do whatever it is you need to. I tidied up wiring from a previous amp install and added some more for the new head unit I bought, which is why you can see the silver duct tape, as I wanted everything secured and neat. I also took the opportunity to vacuum and clean it of all the debris that I found. Putting everything back in is the reverse, of course. Some tips.. Make sure when you put the back rest back in that the eyelets in the frame do actually hook in to the hooks on the bodywork of the car, or it will be loose and free to move. The last person to work on my car didn't, might have been an issue in an accident for the rear passengers! Getting the seat belt clasps back through the cushion is difficult, they aren't very long and the cut out is small. What I did was do one at a time, and then clip the seatbelt in to it, stopping the clasp from pulling back through while you try to pull the others through. And when putting the back rest back in, make sure the back seat belts haven't got caught up and jammed between the cushion and the bodywork. Hope you find this guide useful. Mike

Ok, strange, because with the APP-0120 I didn't have to alter any of the connections. Now the only issue is the way the installers that fitted my amps years ago ran the speaker connections. Instead of running the speaker outputs for the front speakers direct to those speakers, they spliced in to the clarion loom. Took me hours to work out why the fronts would stop working when i plugged in the new loom adaptor, lol. Mike

Ok, an update.. That connector is not the right one, after much digging around I eventually found the two connectors which are part of the factory head unit harness. For those that are attempting to install a new head unit that uses the ISO standard, you will need an AERPRO APP-0120. which is described as "Suit Nissan 1995 on". The only issue I had was that the main connector, which supplies battery, switched ignition and illumination there is also meant to be a ground wire, which mine didn't have installed by the factory, so my new head unit wouldn't power up. It might pick up the ground when the head unit is screwed in to the original metal bracket, dont know, as i was testing it on my car seat before fitting everything back in.. And for reference, my Skyline is an R33 Series 2, so I don't know if this applies to the S1. Mike

Hi everyone, I decided to change the factory double din head unit over to something that requires the standard ISO connector. The info from google seemed to contradict itself, or Nissan decided to use more than one style of factory connector. Anyway, I pulled the head unit out to see what exactly was in my car, and it didn't look like any of the harness adaptors I saw, picture attached. I rang Aerpro and they told me they do not stock an R33 to ISO lead at all Has anyone come across this before, is there someone selling an ISO adaptor for this style of connector? Thanks for any help. Mike

Engine/Car: RB25DET / Skyline R33 Series 2 GTST Type of failure: Snapped crankshaft Factors influencing the failure: None State of tune of the engine: As delivered from factory except K&N panel filter and 3" catback exhaust Suspension and tyres: Stock Oil used and service interval: Martini / 5000k General comments: Driving to work, stopped at a set of lights, heard a grinding sound, lights went green was able to drive car but noticed power steering wasnt working. Pulled in to parking bay, popped bonnet and no ancillaries were turning over. Once car was at the mechanics it turns out that the crankshaft had snapped where it meets the pulley. Closer inspection of the crank once removed suggests it was a casting problem. Thankfully the mechanic said this is extremely rare in the RB25DET engines.. Mike

Turned out it was faulty. Took the replacement home and plugged it in and all is good. Mike

Yeah I am. I connected up a portable frequency counter which showed a static reading at idle which gradually increased with the revs. It was also the colour code reported on another SAU thread. In the troubleshooting part of the manual it says to connect the gauge to a 12v source and see if the backlight comes on, well it doesn't. Not only that, you can't set the shift light point, the needle does not move off it's peg. Mike

Yeah I'll do that if I can't find this mythical test point, I'd prefer the engine bay, just because of easy access to gnd, 12v and (maybe) the test point. Mike