Jump to content
SAU Community

Tubbing

Morgz32
 Share

Recommended Posts

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Tubbing? That's easy. First you take out all the interior of the cabin and the boot. Then you get an angle grinder and cut out the old inner wheel arches. Then you fabricate new, bigger (deeper) wheel arches and weld them in. And because the upper strut mounts are located on the old wheel arches, you have to make up some new ones of those. And then you realise that because your rear suspension has struts, you can't actually make the wheels go much deeper inwards in the car without hitting the struts anyway, so you've just wasted all the effort you've done up until this point. Then you decide that you'll just move the lower mounts for the struts further inward on the lower arms and that's cool except that now you've mucked up the wheel ratio. And besides, now your really wide wheel that you want to put in to make use of these tubs is rubbing on the front upper arm (traction arm, radius rod, whatever you want to call it). At this point you wish you'd never asked about tubbing a RWD Nissan.

Did you perhaps mean putting flared wheel arches on it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/417629-tubbing/#findComment-6704616
Share on other sites
Captain Natro Grand Master

Captain Natro

Posted
Posted (edited)

I always wondered why i never see tubbed skylines..

Easiest way to do this if your realy have your heart set on tubing would be to convert the entire rear end to a four link set up and go from there... Not recommended for a street car and its not cheap :)

Edited by Captain Natro
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/417629-tubbing/#findComment-6706690
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Does the scanner do all the CUs in the car, or only the ECU?
    • albyz34gt
      R34 N/a And R34 Turbo (gtt) Transmission.. Uh, Problem.

      By albyz34gt · Posted

      @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • RB25inside
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By RB25inside · Posted

      Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • GTSBoy
      ECU sees many times the speed than speedo does (R34 swap)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
×
×
  • Create New...