Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 71
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

hello jayb

:thumbsup:

in oz drink driving is bad... sort of as bad as the time we killed rashid staggie in teh streets of cape town...

:jk:

noooo actually drink driving it worse then that

on learners plates u not even allowed to smell alcohol else u screwed,

and the cops pull everyone over and check them,

not like back tehre were u slip sgt shipo mhlope 50 bucks and the rest of your beer and he lets you go

everyone knows south africa is better to get out of a speeding ticket just wave a couple of bucks in the air and your good to go... try that here you lose a couple of bucks a few points and then some more money....

Or you could buy the cop a McDonalds Happy Meal, and he'd let you off with a warning :thumbsup:

South Africa survival guide

1 x gun (preferrably unlicensed with serial number rubbed off)

1 x wodd of 50Rand notes (50 rand = 10$)

1 x bottle of klippies (local brandy) cops favourite

gun should be used wen u feel slightly threathend by anybody

50 rand notes should be handed to ppl when they

a) wanna fine you

B) wanna shoot you

c) want your shoes

just keep giving one at a time until they walk away

klippies should be given to teh group of cops at the roadblock who "look like they have had a tuff night on the job"

be sympathetic in your approach and wish them well

if you drive at night, keep your gun on your lap and ur window up

make sure ur windows are tinted to "super dark, deep sea, space BLACK"

yip u will be fine,

enjoy your stay

ps leave your skylines keys with me, i promise to love and cherish it :thumbsup:

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...