Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Have done a search and didn't find a definite answer.

I am wondering what the length is or even just shortened/lengthened for RB25 gearbox into R32 (specifically 4door, if there's a difference?)

I realise I need a 25 yoke for the tailshaft but can anyone give me anymore info regarding the conversion? As I've read a few contradictory threads about it.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/417936-tailshaft-length-for-25-box-in-r32/
Share on other sites

You don't even need to know. Just front up to any decent tailshaft place. You possibly won't even need to tell them what you want. If you hand them a full R32 tailshaft and the front half of an RB25 one, they'll already know what you want and just do it. They will have done it 3 times that week already, even if you arrive on a Monday.

  • 3 weeks later...

Sorry to say but you are wrong. Rang up hardy spicer today and apparently they don't keep records and guess what it's a Monday also.

Anyone with any useful information that could help me out?

His point wasnt that there is an exact length for every car and that they would be able to rattle it off to you.

Each car (depending on how the box is sitting in the car) will need some slight adjustment. Sure there might be a ballpark length, but do you really want to get it farbicated to this length to find its too short/long?

As GTSBoy said, take the whole lot to a tailshaft/driveshaft place (Hardy Spicer is an example) and get them to do the work for you based of how the assembly is sitting in your car.

Edited by R32Abuser

Sorry to say but you are wrong. Rang up hardy spicer today and apparently they don't keep records and guess what it's a Monday also.

Anyone with any useful information that could help me out?

Spicers are a bit random. I did say "any decent tailshaft place". I don't think we got Spicers to do mine. You could take your tailshaft bits to FoursNMore at Pooraka and get Brenton to sort it out for you. His story about how mine got done reads EXACTLY as I wrote in my first post. We took measurements of distance from gearbox extension to centre bearing bolt holes, he took the parts to the tailshaft place, guy at the counter gave the "oh, another RB25 into R32" shrug and went away and did it.

The only problem we had is that the tailshaft joints in Adelaide are sometimes so busy that you can't get anything done for weeks at a time.

Got basically the same story from Adelaide Tailshaft Services aswel that they only make them up if you provide measurements, didn't think it would vary from car to car so much and assumed they kept records also. Will have to measure it all up once gearbox is in it seems.

Anyone able to shed any light on what clutch master/crossmember to use? Always find more hurdles with modifying cars it seems ;)

Same clutch master is fine. Trans crossmember is harder. There are three types, marked A, B and C. They are mix-matched across various cars depending on which gearbox is in there. For example, the R32 auto uses a different one to the R32 manual. I can't remember which is which and I'm not going to try sliding under my car to tell you which one I've got in there!!! If you get hold of one of each, you should just be able to throw it in the car on the day.

Clutch slave sorry, makes sense R32 one doesn't bolt up to R33 bellhousing so will need an R33 unit obviously.

I have an A and C, apparently it's different converting auto to manual or manual 20 box to 25 box so guess there is no definite answer but hopefully one of the two I have bolt up

I went from R32 auto to manual and had to change crossmember. Then RB25 box transplant and had to change crossmember. I have a strong suspicion that I have the same type under there now as when it was RB20 auto. If that helps. Won't help if yours is a manual body.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...