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Tanabe sustec pro coilovers

Suit r33 gtst

Great condition

Come with c spanners

$600

Tanabe front strut brace suit r33

$70

Sard fuel reg with braided line etc

$70

Nismo fuel reg for rb26

$80

Nismo gearknob

$40

Custom front facing plenum for rb25

$150

Exedy button clutch needs rebuild

$20

Z32 air flow meter

$100

Hybrid limited edition Intercooler and piping to suit front facing plenum

$150

APEXI power FC and controller to suit r33 rb25

$780

Starcorp 18 inch wheels mesh type back with polished lip with newish tyres 97%

$600

Aftermarket 550cc injectors for rb25 side feed will get brand soon

R33 turbo back stainless 4ich exhaust with titanium tip

$200

E boost controller needs solenoid

$130

Turbosmart boost tee

$20

Adjustable rear camber arms

Suit r33 r34 s14 s15

$80

Front caster arms with red aftermarket bushes

Great condition

$70 pair

Blitz turbo timer

Great condition

$30

APEXI turbo timer

$30

Fet turbo timer

$20

APEXI boost gauge 60mm

$30

Garrett boost gauge 60mm

$50

Hks pod filter with adapter for air flow meter

$50

R33 front strut brace aftermarket

$40

R33 black aftermarket side skirts need slight repair

$20

Impul gear knob suit 5 speed

$20

Drift oil cap

$15

Custom one piece tailshaft suit r33

$80

R33 matching gear and handbrake leather boots

Black with red stitching

Great condition

$35

0487924497

Gold Coast

I PM'd and SMS'd you about the Nismo Fuel Regulator already.

Any answer pls? Still coming to Sydney?

Garrett boost gauge sold

Impul gearknob sold

Drift oil cap sold

One piece tailshaft sold

R33 front strut brace aftermarket sold

Adjustable rear arms sold

Z32 sold

Sard fuel reg sold

Nismo fuel reg sold

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  • Latest Posts

    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
    • I definitely know the first rule here, look first, ask second. I've seen many people get roasted 😂 I found a few diagrams for the RB, but I'm yet to come across one for the VQ. From what I have read, the pump gets the +12v along with the FPCM, and it's the negative wire that gets passed through the resistor to regulate the voltage. So I assume I can just ground the negative wire at the pump to eliminate the FPCM control. But I really wanted to see the VQ circuit diagram first to make sure I understood it correctly. Once the new pump is in I'll do some testing to see how it behaves, and in the meantime, I'll keep looking for a wiring diagram. Thanks for your help mate, your time is greatly appreciated.    
    • Maybe? I have the Supercheap ToolPro low thingo. It has a somewhat smaller diameter lifting "bowl" than you would expect on a workshop grade trolley jack, and a split rubber pad to suit that diameter. It clears the "N1" style skirts I have. Probably wouldn't if the jack's bowl and a suitably larger rubber block were in use. Having said that though.....you only need the rubber block to exist on the inner side of the pinchweld, so could carve away any rubber that fouled the skirt, leaving some there for "insurance" </simples>
    • I used to do that (sills with rubber jack block).. ... then I got side skirts, and there's no way for the jack to actually work there, the jack pad itself on the jack is too big. Is the answer to use a... smaller (?) jack? Hmmm.
    • I have too much trauma from every skyline I've ever seen having crushed jack points/pinch welds lol.    Yep, works 100%, it's what I use when I'm using the quick jack. Don't know why I can't also bring myself to do the same thing when I'm using a jack. I blame the skyline PTSD. 
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