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Tanabe sustec pro coilovers

Suit r33 gtst

Great condition

Come with c spanners

$600

Tanabe front strut brace suit r33

$70

Sard fuel reg with braided line etc

$70

Nismo fuel reg for rb26

$80

Nismo gearknob

$40

Custom front facing plenum for rb25

$150

Exedy button clutch needs rebuild

$20

Z32 air flow meter

$100

Hybrid limited edition Intercooler and piping to suit front facing plenum

$150

APEXI power FC and controller to suit r33 rb25

$780

Starcorp 18 inch wheels mesh type back with polished lip with newish tyres 97%

$600

Aftermarket 550cc injectors for rb25 side feed will get brand soon

R33 turbo back stainless 4ich exhaust with titanium tip

$200

E boost controller needs solenoid

$130

Turbosmart boost tee

$20

Adjustable rear camber arms

Suit r33 r34 s14 s15

$80

Front caster arms with red aftermarket bushes

Great condition

$70 pair

Blitz turbo timer

Great condition

$30

APEXI turbo timer

$30

Fet turbo timer

$20

APEXI boost gauge 60mm

$30

Garrett boost gauge 60mm

$50

Hks pod filter with adapter for air flow meter

$50

R33 front strut brace aftermarket

$40

R33 black aftermarket side skirts need slight repair

$20

Impul gear knob suit 5 speed

$20

Drift oil cap

$15

Custom one piece tailshaft suit r33

$80

R33 matching gear and handbrake leather boots

Black with red stitching

Great condition

$35

0487924497

Gold Coast

I PM'd and SMS'd you about the Nismo Fuel Regulator already.

Any answer pls? Still coming to Sydney?

Garrett boost gauge sold

Impul gearknob sold

Drift oil cap sold

One piece tailshaft sold

R33 front strut brace aftermarket sold

Adjustable rear arms sold

Z32 sold

Sard fuel reg sold

Nismo fuel reg sold

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  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
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