Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

due to a over eager mod my last thread was locked yes i didnt list prices straight away but was going to put them up when i got home, didnt need to lock after only a couple hours just a reminder to put up prices, i have read the ruls and was in a rush thought i would just put it up to get the ball rolling. hopefully theres enough detail this time.

picked up another r33 gts-t to strip 1995 series 1 its the bluey/green n silver 2 tone

1995 turbo manual

(running gear on hold)

blitz adj coilovers $850

hicas lock bar $60

big straight through exhaust gotta check dump section sounds really nice $350

front strut brace $50

rear strut brace $80

rear brake set up with 5 stud $500

front brakes, calipers/rotors (i have 2 sets) $250 each set

stock diff (will confirm) $150

Half shafts $120 pair

Volk TE37s 18x8.5 18x9.5 +35 offsets 70% front cheap tyres near new 595 federals rear, price im unsure chinese copys 800ish new 3000ish genuine these with lame offsets n decent tyres few marks etc $1800?

complete interior to part:

centre console $80 (will check condition of hinge)

dash surround $100

good condition seats front and rear $250

drivers window switch $80

window regs n rails $150 pair or $80 each

alpine 6x9s $40

some splits in the front (will confirm brand) $60

momo wheel n boss kit $150

let me know what parts you need, will add items when i think of them

located northern suburbs ADELAIDE

may post smaller items

please PM me for number Cheers!!!

post-4329-0-78119200-1359157033_thumb.jpg

post-4329-0-43684000-1359157049_thumb.jpg

post-4329-0-66741800-1359157065_thumb.jpg

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

few more pics....

rear wiper set up sold pending payment

many ppl asking about the wheels i will try get them off this arvo, gotta find some old sockets as they have bloody lock nuts on them and i didnt get the key with the car grrrr

post-4329-0-03254600-1359251603_thumb.jpg

post-4329-0-93707300-1359251610_thumb.jpg

post-4329-0-20779700-1359251617_thumb.jpg

still have some s1 headlights from another wreck $250 the set, the ones on this wreck seem ok to but a bit dirtier, mind you i havent washed it yet :P

stock front bar and reo front bar is damaged, bar indicators fine,

also found a anodies blue rb25 main drive pulley (harmonic balancer replacement) $50

stock dump n front pipe $50

now have 2x stock cooler set ups $50 each

$1600 for volks

$750 for near new blitz coilovers (with stock stuff for trade)

also have a polished surge tank $50 (i need duel outlet for e85)

also may trade any parts for parts i need..

bosch 044 pump, braided fuel lines, suspension parts anything for rb s14 build :P

post-4329-0-90550500-1359436114_thumb.jpg

post-4329-0-36726400-1359436176_thumb.jpg

post-4329-0-03060900-1359436208_thumb.jpg

also forgot to mention that the car has a sunroof which is working perfectly, found out these arent cheap usually 5-800 from wreckers over a grand new. i will say $400 with what ever i can give you to make it work :P

rear strut brace $60

pioneer stereo mp3 with ipod and usb ports at the front $100

series 2 silvers rear wing $30

dash surround $50

seats front and rear good nick slight fade rear $150 the set

sunroof $300 everything you need

full exhaust aftermarkt 1 piece dump/front, cat (unsure if hollowed) 3" (i think) straight to rear muffler sounds really nice can hear running for the next week or so $300

Complete rear brake set up hub/knuckles/lcas/rotors/discs/handbrake set up with cables $400

2ltr polished surge tank $50

offers on all parts listed in original post :P

VOLKS $1500 (need some shitters for car to roll)

VOLK PRICE DROP

had a good once over the wheels few marks 2 rims have dents, one rear like its gone over a bump to hard, and other on the inner side, car still drove fine, so rerolls needed if you want them perfect, tyres are near near 265s 595 federals on the rear abour 80% fronts

****$1300****

a mate has placed a deposit on running gear but said if someone has coin and needs a running gear to let it go and he will get the next one :P $2000 engine box loom ecu clutch red jacket coilpacks feels strong and smooth!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...