Jump to content
SAU Community

Power To Expect From These Mods?

ZRBE

By ZRBE,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

ZRBE Experienced

ZRBE

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

He wouls lie to get money for free.

He tuned your car with no dyno sheet to show you what he did. Dodgy

Who said I'm not getting a dyno sheet? I am getting before and after sheets.

You also asked me this one the mines ECU thread.. And I told you I WAS getting them

Edited by Zrobe
Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted

No, you see, I read that as meaning he will tune it to whatever is in the tank. Which is kind of what you have to do, no?

That is also what I read, no one would claim it would auto tune to any fuel in the tank....

He definitely means HE will tune it to whatever is in the tank, not the ECU will auto tune to whatever is in the tank.

Regardless it sounds like he is doing epprom tuning, not a nistune, and that will result in a possibly safe but extremely average tune. The only option here is nistune, if he isn't installing a nistune board find a real tuner to do the tune, end of story.

NISTUNE or you find a new tuner, understood?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Looking for someone with a R34 front bar

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's the spirit.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTR Limp Mode?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      A HICAS fault really should not cause the engine to go into limp mode. These cars are so old that the systems barely talk to one another. The thump might be the lockoff solenoid valve for the HICAS (the safety valve) getting closed, to lock the rear wheels "straight". I say "straight", because when my HICAS used to shit itself before I took off and nuked it from orbit, it would lock up with the rear wheels wildy non-straight and you'd need 45° of steering wheel to drive straight. Take off and nuke it from orbit. First step is to pull the smaller of the two plugs out of the HICAS CU. See if it stops misbehaving. You can also (whilst leaving it plugged in) try to get the HICAS CU into diagnostic mode by doing the pedal dance, or by connecting a CONSULT capable diagnostic reader into the car and seeing what it has to say for itself. Can't do either of these with it unplugged though. 1st gen HICAS is a ballache. I would do a complete delete. I did do a complete delete.
    • GTSBoy
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Ah. I dunno why, but I skim read your earlier post and thought the manual switch was to force it on, not force it off. I'd be tempted to have both. So, your two in series, and another in parallel with those. Or, a master arm switch, followed by the manual force on and the thermo in parallel. 6 and 2 3s.  
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      Yeah been doing it in an x shape. Do you reckon it's worth putting guide coat early where the filler isn't sanded down completely smooth? Reason I ask is because as I'm sanding it one part might be level which I don't need to sand anymore but the other part might be high so I can just focus on that instead of sanding across the whole repair area. I wonder if the putty is too thin, though the area is almost completely smooth before I do it as I've already put filler prior.
    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Just 2, and inline. One switch temp related other switch driver controlled.   I'm nearly in my head back to Arduino land for it...
×
×
  • Create New...