Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive been toying with the idea of a turbo conversion on my xr6 AU ute.

Question is , how would a GT3076 1.06rear with external gate compare to a gt3582 with 1.06 internal?

Goal is maximum torque and lowish revs ( under 4000rpm), power 250kw max

I hear the gt3582r doesnt make much noise, id like this thing whistling its tits off so gt3076 is what im leaning towards, but im thinking theres a 10lbs/min difference at say 12psi so thats going to have an effect on the way it drives.

thoughts?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/419058-quick-turbo-question/
Share on other sites

The motor isn't exactly the same, but it ain't far off in terms that it's a 4L and the GT35. The motor is nearly 40% larger than a RB25 where a GT35 comes on ~4400rpm

Factory BA/BF XR6Ts end up making around 220-250rwkw with the GT35 and come on well under 4000rpm mate, it just doesn't feel like it because the motor is so large making it nice and linear.

They also don't "whistle" simply because of the factory airboxes, low turbo RPM, standard comp cover - and it's not needing to run 20psi (nor would a GT30). You put a pod, metal intake - you'll get more sound from the turbo.

would there be much difference if the gt30 was running 10psi and the gt35 7psi or would the gt30 build too much back pressure and have to be detuned to compensate? im thinking the gt30 would be more responsive and compact due to the gas converter sitting near by

If you can, have a look at direct LPG injection too. I believe there has been a fair amount of work done with them on the Ford sixes. Direct LPG keeps the LPG as a liquid until it is expelled from the injectors. As it turns into gas it cools the combustion charge which lets you make more killerwasps. The current setup you have allows the LPG charge to turn into gas much earlier in the intake tract and the cooling benefit is lost. In addition direct LPG allows greater precision in the tune which again will allow greater power/better fuel efficiency.

The motor isn't exactly the same, but it ain't far off in terms that it's a 4L and the GT35. The motor is nearly 40% larger than a RB25 where a GT35 comes on ~4400rpm

Factory BA/BF XR6Ts end up making around 220-250rwkw with the GT35 and come on well under 4000rpm mate, it just doesn't feel like it because the motor is so large making it nice and linear.

They also don't "whistle" simply because of the factory airboxes, low turbo RPM, standard comp cover - and it's not needing to run 20psi (nor would a GT30). You put a pod, metal intake - you'll get more sound from the turbo.

what kind of boost do you think would be sensible for this setup with everything standard then? hoping 10psi should be fine without being silly with it, probably will convert to E85 for the fuel part, and switch over to LPG for the cruising/economy side of it which obviously Is wont be hard driving.

I remember seeing somewhere old foulcans with turbos on LPG running 10s with stock s/h taxi motors...thing is you can wind silly amounts of timing in so the knock resistance of LPG would allow you to run a big turbo (much bigger than 3582 anyway) and you can wind a heap of boost in to cover that hole in low down response...for eg run a to4z or bigger maybe at 2 bar....the high boost and big engine Will give you reasonable response down low and still have killer top end..maybe if you have it setup so that it drops off boost in upper rev range so you don't grenade the motor..

Am I on the right track here ??

I mean if your going to waste your time boosting a hey you foulcan,instead of just buying a BA..you might as well do.it good :P

dunno if we on same page .. lol..

i bought this xr6 tray back for $1200 reparable write off , its really nice condition and has 1yr old duel fuel setup and nice red, just put 18inch ford rims on so looks nice, just needs a front end fix up so im thinking a couple grand for that and a few grand for turbo conversion,

id like a unique looking older car anyway cause i like old school stuff that dont have so much plastic, and being a daily driver i just want some extra torque and to hear a turbo whistling away, no plans for thrashing it much.. want it to be a reliable workhorse, the rb serves the thrashing duties.. :yes:

I'd still go large on LPG, just cause u can...just because its running 2bar of boost doesn't mean you need to thrash it..and it won't cost much more either way it Just means you will have a shitload of power with room for improvement ... :D

I'd still go large on LPG, just cause u can...just because its running 2bar of boost doesn't mean you need to thrash it..and it won't cost much more either way it Just means you will have a shitload of power with room for improvement ... :D

thanks for the replies, a gt3582 from hypergear sounds like the cheapest quality option then, and convert to E85 and have a spike onto boost, so potential for 400kw down the track, but be happy with 230-250kw for a start.. id do a build thread but this is a skyline site and it will take alot of time on a budget :yes:

quite excited how it will go, im not that into falcons really but with some personal touches it seems alright and reasonably stealth

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...