Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So looked around about this and it's very hard to find someone with exactly the same problem so here it goes for my problem and hopefully will give reference to others in the future.

Will try get a video ASAP

So car is fine and dandy as I'm driving along, on hot days but don't know if it's the weather that has anything to do with it as I work nights at the moment and have no chance of driving her when it's cool. All of a sudden I driving along and te car will drop maybe 200 rpm and it will feel rumbly as it idles. Now when I accelerate it feels as if te car is choking on something , I hit 4000 revs and it starts to go away but tends to missfire a bit , at this point. Get home turn her off, drive later it's fine untill later on while driving again . Note sometimes it had gone away while driving. So I've changed spark plus and cleaned the throttle body as I thought maybe its got gunk in there, spark plugs were a bit flooded so those were changed to new ones which the girl at repco stuffed up and have me platinums instead of copper.

So what's my next step to check, I checked the coilpacks and they seemed to be clean.

Your time and effort in assisting me will be greaty appreciated

And the car of course

1996 r33 gtr series 2

Stock engine

Straight through exhaust

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/419190-my-r33-likes-to-chuga-chug-chug/
Share on other sites

Try re-soldering the AFM, there is a 'how to' on here somewhere. Or get another known good unit to try. Most times an intermittent fault like this one is due to dry solder joints inside the AFM.

best to trouble shoot and solve yourself before getting to the tune/dyno as if it isnt they will be charging you top dollar to trouble shoot your car, as well as to fix the problem that you could have easily done so from home...

Okay well then I'm changing mechanics, as mine said the tune should fix if but failed to tell me what it was as he didn't know what it was. Ill give another place a go, try run the car and bring it to them with the problem, if they can't tell by a quick drive ill ask to book a dyno run and have it faulting before I jump on

Try re-soldering the AFM, there is a 'how to' on here somewhere. Or get another known good unit to try. Most times an intermittent fault like this one is due to dry solder joints inside the AFM.

+1

Don't waste your time doing anything else before doing this. Speaking from experience.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
    • Yeah - I mean, go the other way. Smaller range. Not larger.
×
×
  • Create New...