Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've not had a good run when it comes to the tyres on my R33. It took me x4 wheel alignments to discover my left tie rod end was moving an inch! Even then it was my neighbour who actually discovered this. So much for the Tyrepowers and all those who happily took my money but didn't bother to even put a hand on the wheel and try and move it.

Thus this started the whole decline of my bad tyre wear, as the tyres at that point had already scalloped. When I first got my car it came with brand new Gemstone 235/45/17s on the front. To get full use out of them, I've had the tyres flipped and rotated to the other side since they are directional. This bought me another year of use out of them, but the noise, oh the noise lol, it was like driving a truck.

The issue I'm faced with now, is I don't know what to do. My front left inner is wearing badly. I have to replace these tyres, but fear I'll again suffer scalloping, and inner tyre wear on the left side. Thus I've put it off for as long as I can, but I don't have much time to delay before the tyre gets dangerous.

The car steers ok, so it doesn't track or do anything weird. It's just that I can see the left inner is wearing way quicker than it should be. There is movement in the tyres however under breaking and acceleration. I was told this by a mechanic who had me sit in the car and inch forward, hitting the brakes, releasing etc. But the reason as to why it's doing this, I don't recall him saying as it was months ago now when I did this.

Should I pay for the $15 safety check thing that Pedders does? I've seen the ACA/Today Tonight stories on them and don't trust them. Will they actually check my bushings, control arms and all the things related to steering? Or should I book the car into a proper and competent tyre place and they look at it?

My shocks are standard and seem firm. Could this be causing tyre wear issues however?

In the meantime, I'm trying to make a decision on tyres for the front. I can't spend more than $150 per tyre. Thus the Michelins and really great tyres are not within my reach. I've had many alternate names thrown my way like Toyo, Nankang, Kinforest etc.

I can actually get a second hand pair of Yokohama A.Drive R1 235/45/17 fitted for $150 total. It looks like 3/4 tread is left on them, but one of the tyres has a tiny bit of wear and scalloping on the inside. But flipping and having that on the right outside should negate that I would imagine. Anyone running these tyres? Are they good? Is that a decent second hand price for this type of tyre?

Perfect world would be I'd get whatever is causing bad wear and movement sorted and fixed, then look at tyres. But I'm in this go between stage where whatever tyre I put on now before things are sorted will probably be wearing badly too. Thus even figured maybe just get a $50 second handy to tie me over until things are right. As the last thing I want to happen is to get some good tyres, put them on, and then see the same issues appearing again with uneven tyre wear, scalloping etc.

Hoping for some advice and direction there. Thank you.

Edited by KrazyKong

Oh I forgot to add something here. When I'm reversing out and then hit the brakes, I feel this knock of slight movement through the brake pedal. That I believe is what the mechanic referred to as the wheel movement. So it sounds to me like there is either a major problem or a minor one that requires replacing worn somethings.

It's almost certain that you need to pull apart the front end and look at whether you need to replace the;

  • Front upper inner and outer bushes.
  • Lower inner bushes.
  • Castor rod bushes.
  • Upper bearings and ball joints in the uprights.
  • Tie rod ends (in case they weren't done properly).
  • Rack mounts.

Whilst it is apart you can check that the dampers are actually doing something. One of them could be stuffed, which would lead to poor tyre wear.

All this is going to cost $$ though, even if you don't rplace that whole list, the work needs to be done to identify what it buggered and what isn't. But there's really no way forward unless you just pick something at random and do it one by one until you find and fix the worst problem (there may be more than one).

Well, you can pull all of that apart yourself, on stands. But rattleguns certainly make much lighter work of pulling apart the big fasteners in the suspension, and it pays to have an experienced mechanic to inspect bushes and joints if you're not sure what to look for (in terms of how much movement is OK and how much is too much). The suspension arm bushes often need a decent press to get them in and out too, which can be hard to do at home. If you have other transport you can always take the arms off and take them to a mechanic's to get the bushes done.

Wow ok sounds like a decent amount of work is required. I don't have airtools or even stands at this point, but it sounds like it may be cheaper to do this myself. I've found a company called nolathane.com.au that makes replacement bushes for the front and rear. Seems like it might be worth it in the long run to do first the front then rear. I'm more than willing to get my hands dirty on this, but only if it could save me heaps. Guess I'll need to get some quotes then for a workshop to do this, then compare that with buying the tools and parts myself.

I'm going to book the car into a proper steering, suspension place and get a check done. Was recommended a place nearby that charges $20 for this check so seems worthwhile to me. Then hopefully I'll have some more information as to what needs replacing.

I still think I might be better off going with a cheaper front tyre and letting them wear until I see my issues are sorted vs getting some more expensive ones and finding out they are still wearing badly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
×
×
  • Create New...