Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Erica, if you got defected for only the BOV, isnt it standard practice to allow the car to go to a police station to have the defect removed, rather than a full regency inspection?

Just wondering, cos if it is just the one thing, it might be worth addressing the fact that they are deviating from standard practice with the crowd that are looking into it for you.

Yep Steve, it was ONLY the BOV, i took it to the Holden Hill Copper Shop but the defect notice did have VIS on it. So they say it still has to go, even when the cops at Norwood and other police stations said they would take it off but cant for jurisdiction reasons.

Im going to have a panel conciliation with them in the next few weeks. I will definately raise that issue. Further more, i was defected without the police officer who defected me, actually having sighted the defect. Which is a big no no

Im going to make a tape of blow off valve noises, connect my sub to mum's excel and drive around Holden hill with it cranked! lol Just for fun.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42029-defected/page/6/#findComment-870245
Share on other sites

  • Replies 121
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Guest Miss_Nismo
Just plain inconsistencies, there's no explanation for it I guess :confused:  Depends how they feel on the day.

I know what you mean though, my friend moved here from Melbourne and she had to take her stock as a rock Laser to Regency to get it inspected before she could get it registered.  She had to pull her tint off on the spot before they would let her car through.

yes i learned the headaches of buying a car interstate, but i had to wait 5 months before i got mine cleared by regency cause it took me that long to get the parts i needed :Bang:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42029-defected/page/6/#findComment-871375
Share on other sites

A couple of other bits off the top of my head.

 

Everything from the POD or filter back must remain stock, this also means the rubber that joins the afm to the turbo.

Dont know about you but u just said you can have an intercooler but it has to stay stock. wtf?

also this to me seems wrong as i can give you a list of COUNTLESS engine conversion cars that do NOT have this.

On my requirments for modification it says:

That the engine is fitted with the original manufacturers injection system, injectrs and engine managment system.

So basically fron t the throttle body back i can change anything, from dump pipe i can change anything depending on noise levels cat etc, i can mount my afm how i want. I can do this in acordance with , "the engine fitted is not modified to increase power and/or torque beyond that of the std SR20DET 2.0L turbocharged nissan angine" and "THat the noise emitted from the exaust is in accordance Road traffic rules 1999 division 3 noise emission" and "work is carried out exactly as specified to accepted automotive ngineering and trade acts."

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42029-defected/page/6/#findComment-872496
Share on other sites

i feel for u erica as i have just spent the last month suckn regencys holes to get my car back in the end i got my dad to call regency because they wouldnt clear it because aparently my brake caliper came to close to my rim but my dad took it in with stok wheels on and went bunta an they let him off and he didnt even have the papers to clear .

the deal is that cops feel that if they dont defect a import there not doing there job theyd much rather ruin a import owners life than pull a rusted out smokn cut springed corrola drive around freely

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42029-defected/page/6/#findComment-872774
Share on other sites

SR910..

When I said

everything from the POD or filter back must remain stock, this also means the rubber that joins the afm to the turbo.
I was assuming you would understand I was talking about the turbo's intake as I also stated you are allowed to use an aftermarket Intercooler providing you don't cut any bodywork to allow for the piping.

If you change the turbo's intake pipe that connects up to the AFM you also have to fiddle with the recirc bov setup hence that is what makes it illegal.

The BOV recirc system is not allowed to be touched at all.

That is what I was told by the tech boys at regency.

If it wasn't for the stock bov then sure you could change the pipe.

I asked this specific question regarding changing the pipe from the turbo to the AFM as it apparently sucks in up over 200rwkw.

I also asked if there was anything on paper that I could refer to and I was told no.

A little like the "yes you can lower your car by x amount, but sure the headlight is also y height and the suspension travel must be z."

So basically if they want you can be failed for lowering a just because you fail one of the requirements.

Generally they arn't too fussy on the headlight height as a lot of factory cars fail hence a lot of Honda's.

Hope that made sense.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42029-defected/page/6/#findComment-872852
Share on other sites

a bigger intercooler is legal because its not power that regency are concerned with, its emissions. If you car is still running the factory computer it should still be within specifications because it compensates for intake temperature.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42029-defected/page/6/#findComment-873751
Share on other sites

thats the stupidity of it all, a cooler will change emissions, as does exhaust, a poor set of plugs, changing the timing etc - they are just a big bunch of farks on a power trip.

Tim Ireland even told me if I wanted to mod a car, do a pre 1972 one so it doesnt need to be emission tested - I wonder if it is current policy to encourage people to modify an old POS?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42029-defected/page/6/#findComment-875417
Share on other sites

a bigger intercooler is legal because its not power that regency are concerned with, its emissions. If you car is still running the factory computer it should still be within specifications because it compensates for intake temperature.

yea, regency arnt concerned about power, thats why they said i can not mofify the motor to have any more power and/or torque of a standard sr20det motor. /sarcasm off

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42029-defected/page/6/#findComment-879600
Share on other sites

Slap a FMIC on a stock car on a normal temp day and you will pick up bugger all power, if any. (mine picked up ~5rwkw)

It doesn't affect emisions if anything it improves it as the car doesn't pull timing etc.

The Exhaust.. theoretically they shouldn't be allowed as we all know they make our cars run that little bit richer (especially R33's) and also gives us a boost increase which once again throws emissions out the window.

How do they do these emission tests? Idling Cruising & WOT?

Its always made me think if they do a test at WOT and most factory cars dip in to the high 10's high up in the rev range how do they pass?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42029-defected/page/6/#findComment-879683
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...