Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

'A tune' is not a fixed thing... so it's hard to shop a price for 'a tune'.

Nick at GT is good at what he dose and depending on how much time he spends doing what with your car will depend on what he charges you... it's not very common that a car will roll into his workshop with zero issues/problems etc and only needs 'a tune'.

Just go have a chatt with him, do as much of the preperation work your self as you can and book it in.

Cheers

Justin

Mainly I just need an idle and boost spiking fix as the person who tuned my car struggled with those 2 things as he usually only does power fc's. I didn't have the problems before the tune so I am guessing it's in the tune. Thank you Justin :)

They're usually the two most time consuming things to get right... Idle issues could be almost anything and as for boost, I'd just install a turbotech boost T and solve all your issues all at once.



What else did you change before the haltech install and initial tune? I'd be looking at pressure testing your intake and looking for leakes/split hoses and or missing vac lines.... clean your iac motor etc and making sure your intake is all sealed up properly.



What's the idel doing?




Cheers



Justin


The initial tune didn't have those problems, this is the second haltech tune but by a different guy.

The idle is just dying (mainly if you put the clutch in at 3k+ revs) and will stall at times or come very close.

The changes from initial haltech tune to this one:

850cc injectors

garrett 3076r turbo (with custom stainless intake)

bosch 040 pump

nismo fuel pressure regulator

I had heard boost T's were prone to boost spiking, is this just a myth?

Beau, in honesty you have changed alot between tunes.. you will probably find that your idle issues are as much mechanical in nature as anything else. Do you still have your stock bov? is it plumbed in as standard? are you getting reverb back through the new intake causing map sensor spikes, is your tps set correctly?

Nick can fix it for you, just don't expect a tune will be the solution... sounds like the tune needs a good looking over though.

A turbo tech boost T is as reliable as you can get.... just don't buy any other type/brand of T. Again, Nich has them on the shelf.

Cheers

Justin

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...