Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The time has come to sell my 1994 R32 GTR as I have a new project on the way. I could do with the space, but don't bother lowballing me as I would rather keep it than give the car away. The car comes with 12 months WA rego and has been fastidiously maintained with redline oils.

I have between $60K to $70K in receipts (wish I hadn't just added those up :() not including the original purchase price of the car.

The car was resprayed by the previous owner. The paint is still in really good condition with no dents, but maybe a small stone chip or two. There is no rust on the car.

The engine was built 18K kms ago (forged internals, see details below) but a very recent compression test shows 165-170 across all cylinders. With the exception of the engine build, all of the mods below have been done in the last 1000kms, including new turbos, gearbox, NISMO oil pump, clutch etc. The car is making 290rwkw on a safe tune at 18PSI. The first serious person who has the cash will buy this car.

Engine

  • Garret GT2860R-7 twin turbos with
    ceramic coated exhaust housings. (707160-7)
  • Ceramic coated HPI dump pipes
  • Tomei adjustable cam gears.
  • Gates timing belt.
  • Bosch 040 in-tank fuel pump.
  • Sard 650cc injectors.
  • Nismo AFMs (22680-RR580)
  • Nistune.
  • Turbosmart E-Boost boost
    controller.
  • PWR 42mm core radiator
  • PWR front mount intercooler
  • NISMO front strut brace with integral
    brake master cylinder stopper
  • Mines cam cover baffle plates
  • NISMO S-Tune panel filter in
    standard air box
  • Race Pace custom 3.5"
    exhaust, including custom stainless front pipe.
  • J.E. 86.5mm pistons
  • Cometic head gasket
  • Crower billet rods
  • ACL bearings
  • Head oil restrictor
  • ATI super damper
  • Acid bath, bore/hone/deck
    block.
  • New engine wiring harness.
  • NISMO engine oil cap.
  • Split-Fire Ground wire
    earthing kit
  • NISMO inlet manifold
  • NISMO competition oil pump (Not N1 oil pump)
    (15010-RR580)
  • New OEM water pump
  • Twin turbo pipe with splitter
    modification
  • NISMO engine mounts
  • New standard Nissan water pump

Drive
train/suspension

  • NISMO gearbox mount
  • NISMO braided clutch line
  • NISMO clutch pedal bracket (not fitted yet)
  • NISMO trunk brace
  • NISMO under floor reinforcing
    bar (not fitted yet)
  • Brand new R33 GTR series 3
    gearbox.
  • NPC heavy duty organic clutch
    kit and flywheel
  • Bilstein shocks and low King
    Springs
  • Kazama rear camber arms
  • NISMO front upper arms
  • Whiteline camber adjustment
    kit
  • Whiteline heavy duty sway bars
  • NISMO rear tower strut brace
  • Midori digital G-sensor

Wheels/Brakes

  • NISMO LMGT2 rims 17x9
  • NISMO wheel nuts
  • NISMO tyre valve caps
  • Kumho KU36 (245/45R17)
  • Project Mu NS street brake
    pads
  • Braided brake lines
  • Genuine N1 brake air guides

Exterior

  • Genuine R32 GTR N1 front reo
    bar
  • Genuine N1 bumper vents
  • N1 headlights
  • Genuine Nismo/N1 side skirts
  • Garage Defend carbon cooling
    panel
  • NISMO fuel cap cover
  • Attain carbon exhaust shroud
  • 3M window tint
  • Genuine OEM brake ducts
  • Rare NISMO option rear spoiler


Interior

  • R34 GTR V-Spec 2 front seats
  • NISMO centre gauges
  • NISMO instrument cluster with
    300km/h speedo
  • NISMO leather gear knob
  • NISMO floor mats
  • NISMO cigarette lighter
  • R34 GTR V-Spec 2 pedal set.
  • Superior Auto Creative Black
    Carbon Shift Panel
  • Superior Auto Creative
    Carbon-Look Center Console Cover
  • Superior Auto Creative
    Carbon-Look Shift Boot
  • Superior Auto Creative Carbon-Look
    Side-Brake Boot & Grip Cover
  • Mint condition original steering wheel
  • Brand new dash (Nissan don't make these anymore, someone just bought the last one from Nissan Japan)
  • Brand new door cards front and rear
  • Brand new rear window surrounds

Anyway, I am sure that I have forgotten lots of things, but you get the idea.

Chasing $25,000 as I think this is a very fair price.

Scott 0437 887 478

post-78056-0-54328400-1361788908_thumb.jpg

post-78056-0-41177800-1361788917_thumb.jpg

post-78056-0-68823300-1361788922_thumb.jpg

post-78056-0-64262800-1361788927_thumb.jpg

post-78056-0-62543000-1361788932_thumb.jpg

post-78056-0-98214400-1361788939_thumb.jpg

post-78056-0-98481100-1361789087_thumb.jpg

post-78056-0-64828900-1361789092_thumb.jpg

post-78056-0-38044700-1361789097_thumb.jpg

post-78056-0-11555900-1361789105_thumb.jpg

post-78056-0-38061800-1361789111_thumb.jpg

Post up dyno result, etc???

No need to, sold pending payment. If the deal falls through, will scan in the dyno sheet. By etc. what other info were you after??

  • 3 weeks later...
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...