Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Since the day i picked up my car i have had this issue with the bonnet rubbing with the fender and i am finally getting around to fixing it up..

The cause of this rubbing is the hinge itself, somehow it's bent causing this to happen..

Here's a picture of what the bonnet corner/fender looks like after 12 months of rubbing.

foq6up.jpg

ioeykk.jpg

It's not noticeable until you get up close, then it looks horrible. I have tried putting washers behind the bolt holding the hinge in to give the bonnet a bit of height but i can't seem to get it to line up with the fender without it rubbing and it looks silly having it too high.

Now, what my problem seems to be is sourcing a new bonnet hinge. I have been in contact with my buddy Charles from B2Autodesigns in the states but he thinks the guys at OCinfiniti reckon they are different. It's hard to tell between pictures without having the hinge off the actual car but here's a pic of it on my car compared to what i found on google for a g35 hinge.

1zbf288.jpg

64ie6q.jpg

I would go ahead and order a new set of hinges and pay $100 but i'd rather make sure they will actually fit the car. I also plan to get the corner touched up once i've replaced the hinges as it looks horrible and i hate it :/

My local Nissan could be an option, but my experience with those guys has been nothing but negative. Ever since the head service manager told me i need to take the car to a panel beater to get a compression rod bush replaced...

If anyone could shed some light on this that'd be great,

cheers

Edited by Seano350GT
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/421226-bonnet-hinge-rubbing-issue/
Share on other sites

I'm going to be ordering a pair of hinges from Perry Infiniti soon. I can't see why they would be any different to the G35 hinges.

It's a very common problem as highlighted on http://g35driver.com/forums/interior-exterior/216502-another-hood-hinge-bending-problem.html

Andy, thanks heaps for that link i didn't realise how common this issue was. First time i saw it i thought to myself "shit it's been in an accident" lol.

I don't see why they'd be different either, it just seems to look like they are judging by the pictures. Not sure if i should go ahead and buy the hinges from the U.S yet. I might give Nissan a ring today and see if they can help but i highly doubt it.

Amazingly enough, Nissan came through. Must be a new bloke that works at my local Nissan because he's the first one to actually know what a V35 is lol.

$65 for a set of hinges coming from Melbourne so that's good news. My next issue is apparently you have to remove the fender to get the hinges undone.. that sounds like fun.

turns out it's actually a really common problem with the hinges starting to bend.. quite weird if you ask me. But yeah i need to see if it can be done without removing the fenders, after some reading on g35driver.com it seems the fender has to come off. But in saying that a bunch of people were also commenting saying no you don't have to take it off.. we'll see lol.

reminds me on a grandpa's lancer i worked on once, bonnet was hard to open, turns out both hinges were rusted solid. i was actually bending them when opening and closing the bonnet, and the passenger side was already becoming soft and ready to snap

Edited by junkie

had a good look at mine today. seems like the longer part of the hinge, between the pivot point and the bonnet, has some flex in it, you can actually spot it when opening the bonnet

with that amount of flex, if the pivot point isnt lubricated properly, it would flex enough to catch the corner of the guard, and only on the way up

the pivot point itself appears to be in an area with a bit of water runoff from the a-pillar area, so regular lubrication would be a good idea

you can reach it with a thin tube between the a-pillar/guard and lower windscreen trim panel, there is just enough gap there

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
    • Sorry, just assumed that talk of coloured pads meant EBC red/green/yellow/shit stuff. I don't know the DBA pads, but it's a reasonable bet that they will be OK. DBA make good stuff generally. Those 4000 series rotors I linked to are very good. I may well replace the RDA rotors I have with those when required.
    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
×
×
  • Create New...