Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Want To Trade:


Enkei RPF1 17x9 +22

S15 AM Performance Catback Exhaust

S15 Sideskirts, let me know what you have



Located in Eastern Suburbs, Melbourne. Contactable via PM or mobile 0422 889 896.


Cheers Alex.


VELO MILANO XL, MONZA HARNESS & MODDED R33 RAIL x2


Bought these for a friend and I, unfortunately we're both too big for the seats!! As reference I'm 186 cm, 115kg and do too many squats at the gym lol. I fit in it but my ass is very tight and my shoulders too wide. Normal size you'll fit very nicely lol.


Passenger seat is in near perfect condition. Drivers has tear from getting in and out but does not effect function.

Milano XL retails for $700. Not sure what the Monza harnesses are worth but Velo's equivalent starts at $150. Modding the rails to suit is more $s.


Picked them up very cheap. Prices are firm I only want to make my money back nothing more :)


Drivers $325 takes into account the tear.

Passenger $425


If you get in quick I'm happy to swap the passenger seat (near perfect condition) onto the drivers rail, same price $425.


WQDtCXD.jpg


ccUooiJ.jpg


NiEf1rZ.jpg


Passenger

TgXotlV.jpg


Drivers

tfN4TZW.jpg


Tear.

1jUXqCK.jpg




Grab a bargain for DECA or trackdays! :lol: Bucket seat and harness are an awesome mod.


NISSAN S15 JDM REAR BAR + NISSAN PODS


Genuine. White (resprayed, not WK0). $350 $300 for pods, $250 $200 for rear bar however the pods have been fitted very well and look like they're staying there lol. Would rather not split.


NISSAN S15 GT LEATHER SEATS


Immaculate condition. $550 $450ono


ib0dpNx.jpg


NISSAN S15 STOCK SEATS


Stock S15 Seats $300 ono


y4p0G.jpg


ATP T28. Rebuilt and balanced at ATP 3000 kms ago. Rebuild cost $600, sell $500 ono with braided water lines.


Essentially brand new, still on the car more than welcome to come see it. Don't buy 1,2 or 3 fkd second hand T28s with 150k+ kms, 2mm play and fkd bearins/seals, save yourself headaches, money and buy this one.


4pv6q.jpg


Rebuild pics/text. Kyp wanted to show-off when he rebuilt it lol. Post #58.



Finished after rebuild. Post #61.



NISSAN S15 BOOT


No wing, debaded and dekeyholed (? lol). Perfect condition. Red $400 $300 firm.


BLITZ NUR SPEC EXHAUST


$450 ono be awesome and buy this zorst or im going to keep it and ask Ben to make me 400 mm decat lol[/color]


6rBhL.jpg


4JI0j.jpg


APEXI N1 EXHAUST


$450 ono, relatively quiet, free flowing, APEXi nuff said.


YGeUvUf.jpg


aOmRpie.jpg


Can throw in decat for $50 if you're so inclined lol




Full S15 Exhaust NOW $130!

SMIC shroud NOW $10

S15 Stock Fuel Pumo NOW $40

T28 Split Dumps Top both NOW $20

Cats gutted NOW $15 [/color]

S15 Stock Front Swaybar NOW $40

S15 ECU Bracket NOW $FREE ZOMG FREE SHIT ZOMG OMG OMG TAKE IT!!!
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/421367-blitz-apexi-velo-nissan-garrett/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...