Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, so I'll start at the beginning. I bought my 93 r33 gtst and everything seemed to be fine, drive well, made good power, etc. After a week or two it stalled out of the blue and wouldn't start again. First check was fuel pump which was getting no power. Took it to a good friend of mine at a performance shop and it turned out to be a fuse in the drivers footwell. After getting that replaced I had it dyno'd to get a more recent power figure (sheets I had from previous owner were for 2007). At this point I was told it badly needed a retune; running very rich. After the tune it was fine for a few days then the car began idling bad (fluctuating between 600-1500rpm) and would sometimes even stall. I checked plugs, coilpacks, injectors, replaced the fuel filter and had the AAC valve cleaned, this helped the idle problem but didnt fully eliminate the fluctuation. Few weeks went by and then YESTERDAY my power steering started to groan at startup and I could hear a loud tapping/scraping noise from the front of my engine. Upon inspection (engine running) I could see small dusty elements floating around the front of the engine, car would idle VERY low and then struggle and die. Given my power steering was groaning and the ticking noise sounded to be coming from the belt area I removed the power steering belt and while I was at it the air con belt as well (no condenser anyway). Power steering pulley seems to have a bit of drag when turned by hand. I've left the belt off and am now back to driving a car with no power steering until I can get it looked at properly. The tapping/scraping noise is no longer present, idle has greatly improved but now the battery light in my dash is constantly on when the car is running. My first thought was alternator but before I rushed into too much I was curious to see if anyone else has bad this problem and what the cause was?

Any help greatly appreciated.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/421921-r33-battery-light/
Share on other sites

i cant help you out with your issue, but it wasnt too bad to read :D prob could have used a paragraph or two though...

i had my timing belt and water pump ect changed cause it was leaking and ive noticed a similar sound to yours, its on that side but cant tell if it up high or down near the pump, i tried chagning the fluid and it didnt do anything, i have no idea atm might have to go back to the mechanic, he did think it was the fluid.

dont mean to highjack

is your battery all good? have you tested it? although if its still starting that prob isnt the issue

Haha I thought I might have dribbled on for a bit too long. Yea I tested my battery and that's all good, upon inspection I noticed my main belt wasn't straight between the crank and alternator, looking closer I could fit my finger between the back of the harmonic balancer and the timing cover..

Long story short the rubber in the centre has worn away completely and the outside of the balancer is just spinning on itself, pulled the outside off and the inner part is still there (held in by the crank bolt). Now to find another balancer that WON'T give me this trouble again and try to get the crank bolt undone. Fingers crossed that's the source of all the problems outlined earlier, at least I know my power steering pump is ok haha :D

Good luck with your problem! Let me know how you go.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...