Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone I bought a skyline r33 gtst 1996. So the guy told me it had a r34 turbo a front mount and an exhaust I told my mate to have a look at it and he said its also got a Mitsubishi bov. Do I get an after market bov or a stock one ? And also who do I take the car to, to get the boost up to at least 10psi ??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/422114-new-guy-with-a-skyline-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites

on a stock ECU, yes - you get breakups after 11 or so and a massive rich-and-retard in the middle (i know alllllll about this one :( )

even with aftermarket ECU, try to stay at 13 or under - reliability and all that, the turbo's almost 20 years old if still stock.

Hmm - you can probably run 12psi then, but yeah, with stock ecu you'll get massive rich-and-retard in the middle (like it has MASSIVE lag in the middle of the RPM curve), then comes on ridiculously strong. If you're not used to it, you'll punch your car into a pole.

If you haven't had a turbo car before, set it to 9psi, have a play with that, and then once you're confident (and I'm still assuming no funny business on the roads), then look at moving it upwards.

When I first got my 33, mine was set to 12psi and it scared the living shit out of me. (admittedly with a Power FC so the midrange grunt was back)

Lol umm well I'm kinda getting used to it that's why I've been asking just started a little funny business on the road and haven't had problems. Maybe I should leave it at 10psi and see what happens from there.

on a stock ECU, yes - you get breakups after 11 or so and a massive rich-and-retard in the middle (i know alllllll about this one :( )

even with aftermarket ECU, try to stay at 13 or under - reliability and all that, the turbo's almost 20 years old if still stock.

There is no way of saying what boost to set the car to to avoid R&R. Mine used to R&R at 8PSi. Why? Because I had an efficient intake and exhaust.

The ECU goes spastic at a certain AFM voltage depending on RPM. AFM voltage is all about air flow, (Cubic feet per minute for example of air flow). Boost pressure is all about a restriction.

Restrict the exhaust, and then at the same boost pressure you'll make less power. Why? Less Cubic Feet Per Minute of air flow.

For the sake of your turbo, set the boost below 10PSi.

For performance sake. Set the boost on a dyno, and still keep it below 10PSi.

Haha I don't think I'm ready for track still getting the hang of it.

I had my mate drive it and he showed me its full potential so when I learn to drive like him then ill take it out on track.

The track is the best place to learn how to drive it, and it's the only place you want to drive it hard.

Take it out to a Texikhana too, very good for learning your driving skills.

Yep, definitely Texi - helps you learn heaps more about how the car handles and reacts - nice and cheap too!

The next step from there's doing a Marulan Driver Training Centre day, awesome fun. You go in the learner group, and take your time. Did that last time and learned heaps about how the car flows on the track, first time out on a real track.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...