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Nsw: Huge Workshop Cleanout Rb20/1Jz Engines, R154, Rb20 Boxes, Td05 Turbo, Splitfires,niztune,inj,r32/33 Knuckles, Coilovers, Twin Plate Etc


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JZA70 1jz + r154 Complete motor package for sale. recoed head with genuine parts head gasket timing belt etc, 2jz water pump conversion, pully kit, custom dump pipes, ecu harness etc, everything to do a conversion $3500 ono

2X RB20 engines both in good running condition, both come with inlet manifold stock injectors, cas, both near new heavy duty clutches fly wheel, engine harness, igniters, No turbos on both $850ono each engine

2x RB20 boxes 1 of them is good has typical rb bearing noise (not bad noise) $450 ono and the other box works but noisey on decel when in 1st and 2nd $300ono

RB 20/26/25series1 splitfire coilpacks with harness near new $380 ono

RB Stock coils with harness $100

Rb20 niztune, only done 1 track day since new $450

Z32 afm with modified plug to plug in rb20 stock afm plug $150

siemens top feed 610cc injectors only 1 track day old $450 ono come of my rb20

Kinugawa TD05 turbo setup with rear housing modified to run 45m or 44mm turbosmart tail gate, (selling gate separate) turbo set up comes with all the braided lines and fitting to go in block, dump/front pipe, front intercooler pipe, inducer pipe, turbo is 1 track day old made 222rwkw on 22psi $800ono was on my rb20 r32

Turbosmart 45mm gate with screamer 1 track day old $495

RB26/25 exedy twin plate plenty of meat left done hand full of track days since new $850 ono

RB26 complete polished inlet manifold TB's all fittings are dash fittings modified, water neck is modded, was in my rb26 180sx $450 ono

Garage 7 r32/r33 extra lock knuckels with hubs extended lca's brand new tie rods and tie rods spacers (my 32 has so much lock with them that if i go full lock dump the clutch to do donuts, the car will just crab walk loland theres no bind $750ono

G4 coilovers to suit r32 $500 ono

gktech rear camber arm to suit r32 s13 near new $180ono

2x hicas lock bars off my r32 $80 each

r32 front strut brace $50

Gizmo electronic boost control $180

apexi pod filter $50

r32 adjustable caster rods $50

r32 gtst front calipers and discs new qfm A1rs pads and machined discs $350ono

r32 rear 5stud hub discs calipers with new qfm pads$350ono

gtr drivers seat in average cond no tears $250

r34 gtr recoed rear drive shafts (new) $400ono for the pair

deauschworks fuel pump (300L e85 compatable), 1 track day old $150 ono

Rb trust oil cooler and sandwich plate with lines $350 ono

intercooler kit to suit rb20 r32 4350 ono near new

ca alloy radiator $100

2x spal 12inch puller fans (1200 cfm each) near new $250 for both

16 inch spal high preformance puller thermo fan 3000cfm near new $280 ono

aristo hks coilovers $800 near new

brand new pbm hydro hand brake with handle grip and line kit $300

sr20 igniters $50 each

r33 widebody front gaurds 20mm $250

saas gauges with cup holders, oil/water temp, oil press, boost with sensors not old $150 for the lot

i can sms pics if your interested, please no tyre kickers as i have a workshop to run, all parts in castle hill call pete 0407008651

Kinugawa TD05-18g turbo set up to suit stock Rb20 manifold, turbo and turbosmart hypergate 45mm are 1 track day old, all new braided lines, front cooler pipe, dump/front pipe, inducer pipe made 222rwkw 22psi Will sell the lot for $1150 or turbo setup less gate for $800 and wastegate for $450

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  • 2 months later...

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  • Latest Posts

    • You're now in the unrestricted member group so upload away! 
    • TBH, it sounds like the threads on the bolt are fubar in a specific section. Most likely as you've been working it back and forth it has torn threads out, as you loosen the bolt, this section enters the nut, now you're spinning a round shaft inside the nut, there's no threads here.   Use something similar to a claw on a hammer that will fit either side of the bolt head and try to apply downward force while also undoing it. The idea is to attempt to catch a thread, or just rip the f**ker out. Caution on ripping out, as it could bend/maime/mangle what the captive nut attaches to. If the captive nut is actually okay, you could do the dirty part of cutting the head off the bolt, then cut a slit in the end of the thread that's now exposed and then screw it up and into the area the captive nut is until it falls out the other side. However, this does risk the remainder of the bolt rusting over time and damaging near the captive nut and also making it rust. However, so can cutting pieces of panel work out to access this area if you don't reseal it properly.
    • Well, every piece of information on that part when you track it back to Nitto says it's for a KIT of theirs. It is also designed thicker to be stronger. And they speak about a specific harmonic balancer bolt they supply for the whole setup.
    • Techniques for removing stuck bolts are: hitting the bolt head with a hammer, heating the bolt to red hot then letting it cool and working it back and forth like you are already doing. AFAIK the idea is to try to crush whatever material is stuck between the threads (and heat also melts locktite but that's almost certainly not relevant in this case).
    • Yuh, I think it works with the Nitto gear only. I presume that you're not also using the Nitto gear? Watch the video. Compare the interface between the Nitto gear and washer (on the gear side) vs the stocker and decide if you think the Nitto gear is different from stock there.
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