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I have just put every aftermarket part I have into one

Please check this for any updates or price drops

Prefer everyone to text message or call

Haltech e11v2 ecu with plug and play loom suit rb

$700

Splitfire coilpacks rb25 series 2

Great condition

$350

R33 white boot with Gtr copy wing looks awesome

$100

G4 rear coilovers great condition

Suit r33 s14 s15

$200

Nismo shocks and springs

Just the fronts

Suit r33 r34 gtst

$200

Hks coilovers suit r33

Height Adjustable and damper

Make a offer

Je forged pistons and 26 rods to suit rb26

86.5mm

Great condition

$500

Acl/Ross forged pistons

Suit rb25det

Good condition apart from a scrap on the under Neath of piston

$200

Autobahn88 Intercooler kit non return flow

Complete kit

Damage to the cooler can get it fixed if someone is interested

$100

Nismo rays lmgt2 wheels

17x9 +38

17x8 +35

federal 595 rsr semi slick tyres on the front

Fit r33 gtst awesome

One front wheel needs repairing will cost maybe 150 to fix

$500

Genuine nismo strut brace with brake stopper

Suit r33

$100

Hks idle stablizer

$50

Autometer boost gauge

52mm

$30

R33 gear and handbrake boots

Leather with blue stitching

Great condition

$30

Ssr 17x9 17x8 multi spoke wheels

With nexen near new tyres

$500

Turbosmart fuel cut defender

$50

Exedy button clutch needs rebuild

$20

Exedy heavy duty clutch organic

Great condition

Suit rb20 rb25 rb26

$150

R33 cat back exhaust 3 inch with jasma tip

$130

Drift oil cap

$20

Turbosmart boost tee

$20

Blitz turbo timer

Great condition

$30

APEXI turbo timer

$30

Fet turbo timer

$20

Hid lights comes with everything

$20

Blitz boost gauge

In bar

Looks awesome

$50

Greddy adapter for radiator hose for temp gauge

$30

Hks pod filter with adapter for air flow meter

$50

R33 front strut brace aftermarket

$40

R33 black aftermarket side skirts need slight repair

$20

0487924497

Gold Coast

Edited by toy515

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  • Latest Posts

    • Make sure you use the spherical bushes** on the lower arms, ifyou do that. ** at least, if not the whole replacement lower arm.
    • The tap for coolant flow control will be stuck open. It's not just the air door motor that dies.
    • Not really, but the heater box is pretty simple mechanically....if the door is one way the air bypasses the heater core and if it is the other way it goes through it for warm air.  If you are sure the actuator you moved manually is for the heater mix (there would also be one for output air direction) then I'd take the heater box out and see what is happening (you'll have to regass and re-coolant the systems afterwards) BTW pp724 onwards from the GTR workshop manual cover the system in good detail, it is probably worth checking. I think the IAT sensor might be a problem electrically for getting cold (if you got 24 error code not -24 it thinks the incoming air is -50c) and it covers how to test the sensor (although most likely it is either not plugged in or a wire is damaged)
    • Use the GKTech subframe bush and bring your subframe 10mm closer to the chassis. You'll need to fix an exhaust hanger to suit. One of the best mods I've done.
    • You'd really have to pull it apart further to know, it least you can be confident that the one heading to the back is not connected any more. There was once a ground on the shifter seal mount too, your head unit issue could be that simple
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