Jump to content
SAU Community

Intercooler Install - Before and After...

Gizmo73

By Gizmo73,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Gizmo73 Proficient

Gizmo73

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys..

I got my front mount intercooler installed last week, and i am a bit dubious about the dyno reading - in that its too high..

I have had two dyno readings - both done with the same settings on the same dyno in the same place - all in shootout mode.....please keep in mind these dyno runs are done just so i know where i stand with the car - im not after dyno output figures only tuning, as this car's objective is the 1/4 mile...

1st dyno run: 166RWKW (HKS super-dragger exhaust, front dump pipe, HKS air pod) - This is about what i expected, which is fine..

Installed GTR front mount intercooler - 120 bend from plenum, 2.5 aluminium pipes all round, cut front bar, plumb back BOV (turbosmart)

2nd Dyno Run: 196RWKW/199RWKW/203RWKW - wtf ?? On the sheet, the first run (done about a month ago) was overlayed, and the difference is all mid range/top end. Additionally, the a/f ratio leaned out a tad, which is also what i expected..

However, i wouldnt expect more than about 10RWKW with this mod, due to the decreased resistence in boost.

Boost is stock, as is the turbo - i was paranoid and all the way home checked the boost gauge (stock) to see if something was amiss to count for the extra power - didnt go over 3.5.. (7psi...ish)

The car as since done about 200kms, so im pretty sure everything that has to be connected is. The feel is that the car is most improved top end about 5,000rpm...

Im after any plausible explanations for this - i dont care about the figures, moreso the huge jump.

Thanks,

Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42301-intercooler-install-before-and-after/
Share on other sites
Sciby Experienced

Sciby

Posted
Posted

Perhaps the dyno is a little bit overzealous... my car with full zorst and air pod managed 149.2rwkw on a cold day with a tank of Ultimate, in shootout... car was tiptop, no other issues... and a @40rwkw gain from an FMIC sounds huge...

Either the dyno is out, or there's something in your car that you don't know about. :D

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

Hi Matt, this is a mixture of comments and questions....

A standard R33 GTST puts out 120-125 rwkw on our dyno, we have had about 20 of them now and that's about the average (and applies to over 80% of the time). With RAWS compliancing we are seeing more and more stock standard cars.

Your car had

just a HKS super-dragger exhaust, front dump pipe, HKS air pod
and made 166 rwkw (ie; 41-46 rwkw more). Based on my experiences, I don't think so! :headspin:

More like 146 rwkw I would say.

Then

GTR front mount intercooler - 120 bend from plenum, 2.5 aluminium pipes all round, cut front bar, plumb back BOV
makes another 37 rwkw (up to 203 rwkw).

The best I have seen out of that upgrade is 25 rwkw accompanied by a small increase in boost, about 1-2 psi. So when you say stock boost? Where is that measured? On what gauge?

Final comment is, I have yet to see an R33 RB25DET make 200 + rwkw without some form of A/F ratio correction (SAFC or PFC etc) and a boost increase, with 10 to 12 psi being the normal level. For your upgrade level I would expect 170 to 175 rwkw. The A/F ratio correction usually yields around 10 to 15 rwkw and the boost increase a similar 10 to 15 rwkw increase. Thus 200 rwkw is a common goal with a standard turbo whilst maintaining some life. :freak:

It would help a great deal if you could post the dyno graphs, there are generally a lot of clues contained therein. :aroused:

Hope that all makes some sense

Guest Robo's

Guest Robo's

Posted
Posted
Interesting... generally the anecdotal evidence is the other way around, bigger gains for gears than the FMIC... weird. :D

Its quite common knowledge that the exhaust cam gear on a R33 yields about 5rwkw. Going by the seat of the pants feel, thats as most as i got too. With the FMIC, i could feel a noticeable gain.

Guest Robo's

Guest Robo's

Posted
Posted
Well, if it's common knowledge, there's a lot of people out there who have it wrong.

Well i have been reading these forums for about a year now and its quite common knowledge. Maybe your getting mixed up with the GTR in which they get around 20rwkw with both inlet and exhaust cam gears adjustments.

Gizmo73 Proficient

Gizmo73

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey Guys - thanks for the interesting posts.....

Hi Sciby - im sure the dyno is reading high - im more interested in the RWKW difference (which is about 40RWKW) than the actual figure. im using this diagnosis as a tuning tool, nothing more - as i wish to get this beast out on the 1/4 mile to prove its worth..

Generally - no cam gears (yet - soon, though) - and running stock boost (7psi) and stock turbo

Hi Knore - hard to say in regards to SOTP feel. Im sure it feels better, but its hard to say 40RWKW better. Im sure this mod would pickup boost increase by default (due to less restriction), however this should be about .5-1 psi i wouldve thought...

Hey SydneyKid - stock boost is as it states - i havent touched the turbo or boost in any way, shape or form on this car. The boost is measured on the stock gauge for the moment (bad, i know) - and this is based on the fact that at 5k RPM the boost gauge is not going much past 3.0...this tells me that as inaccurate as the gauge is, the car is not running over 10psi (being generous)...ill try and scan the dyno sheet...

Hey Nathan....it was a dyno dynamics dyno, in shootout mode - same settings for both runs..

Cheers,

Matt

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...