Installing Additional Wires In Non-Bose V36 Doors Question

[The Max]

Hey guys,

I'm on quite the steep learning curve here, having discovered yesterday that unlike the cars of yesteryear, there's no longer a simple grommet for passing additional speaker wires through.

And since Nissan obviously feel it's more important to save money by making a whole bunch of different harnesses across their different variants of the V36, I was wondering if anyone else has tried tackling this problem where the stock woofer and "squawker" speaker are paralleled together with only a capacitor to act as a crude filter for the higher range speaker?

The fact that the door connector isn't all that easy to unplug with the lever in the way and the amount of stuff that's behind the side panel under the dash has left me resigning myself to the idea that my only option will be to sacrifice the not-so-useful little foot light at the bottom of the door and use its wires to feed the replacement tweeter instead. Of course, it still means having to take out the whole dash so that I can better expose the wires in the cabin to cut and tap into but I really don't see any other option here. Naturally, I'm not all that comfortable with using such thin wiring but that said, the tweeters consume less power than the woofers do. Of course, it's not just about power as there's also impedance to consider since various wires have various inherent capacitance which may or may not colour the sound somewhat. The less I have to tweak, the better but if I don't have any other option, so be it.

Any and all suggestions appreciated.

[Chris Rogers]

How much power?

16awg is good up to 100w. After that there is a measurable loss but not audible.

[The Max]

How much power?

16awg is good up to 100w. After that there is a measurable loss but not audible.

Thing is though, that depends on whether it's a high voltage or high current source. In this case, the app is a high voltage output and I'm pushing a nominal 100WRMS through 13AWG (the 2.5mm2 Klotz cable I mentioned in my amp write-up). The idea would be to keep the 12V lamp wire pair to less than 1m because it looks to be closer to around 24AWG.

Of course, if the harnesses can be replaced as you suggested, then I'll be happier to do that even though it means taking doors off to work with it.