Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Having a fault code come up and my mechanic and trans specialist is useless, thus I want to get and OBD2 reader to so that I can monitor the sensors that are calling the fault and get the bloody problem fixed.

I have picked up one from ebay but whether it was the device or the applications that was the problem I'm not sure, but I was unable to connect to and read the ECU. It even made the car idle funny while it was plugged in :-/

It's a 2001 R34 GTV (25gt) so I know it's OBD2.

So, if there's any recommendations for devices to hook upto my laptop I'd be much appreciative. Also bluetooth would be a preference, if they're considered reliable enough.

Thanks,

Teir.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423268-obdii-suggestions/
Share on other sites

Shite... I'd be a bit pissed with myself if I'm that wrong. I recognized that the port was incorrect from the device itself and got a cord that would sit between the two with the correct sockets either side...

So you're likely right...

This thread here is the correct socket...

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/219569-r34-oxygen-sensor-test/

I too thought they were consult, and that plug looks just like the consult plug in the missus' pulsar.

If you decide to get a new cable, i use a ecutalk cable that is usb. Not the cheapest, but i've been happy with it, and it's made by a member of this forum.

I too thought they were consult, and that plug looks just like the consult plug in the missus' pulsar.

If you decide to get a new cable, i use a ecutalk cable that is usb. Not the cheapest, but i've been happy with it, and it's made by a member of this forum.

Yea, looks like it is. Dunno how I then found an adapter from consult to OBDII o.O

Anyway, ECUTalk is the only one I've found on eBay... Does he give members discounts? :-P

ECUtalk cable is cool.

Also try and find software such as : Nissan Datascan, Scantech, Conzult etc...

They're fun to play with too. :thumbsup:

I definitely will! I'm an embedded systems engineer (At uni) so looking into the guts of it all will be very interesting.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...