Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

One issue after another. I have lost the count but anyways.....

This new issue is a bit interesting. I used to have ticking/ rattling noise coming from the damn variable valve timing unit. during the last few weeks that annoying sound has gone for good. However we have a different issue now.

When the car idles, especially when warm, it shivers, shakes just as the idle RPM is too low and it's going to stall. However the idle RPM is pretty normal (around 600rpm) and although the car shakes like it's having an orgasm, it doesn't stall.

When you stop at the lights, it happens. when you take off, the car goes nice and smooth.

What might be the issue guys?

I kind of like it as it functions like a massager.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423868-my-300gt-has-malaria/
Share on other sites

If it's bad enough you may be able to hear it. A stethoscope may be useful here. Otherwise just spray some silicone spray, or an equivalent accelerant, all around the intake, piping etc and listen to hear the idle speed pick up.

nah mate, that is your "fuel damper"

you can only hear it from the inside of your car right? not from the outside?

and it seems to be coming from behind the dash right?

if you put your hand on the fuel damper in your engine bay you will feel it shake, that is the cause of your problems.

I had this exact same problem and got it fixed, new damper cost about $90....easy install just gotta jack the car up.

It does file like the car is kind of a massage chair. the whole thing is simply shaking. It's like a huge vibrator.

I have recently changed the fuel pump but not sure about the dumper stuff.

The car shakes but doesn't stall and when you accelerate, it runs nice and smooth.

As I said it feels like the idle rpm is low, but then it should stall right? this guy doesnt stall at all. When you are at the lights, right before you take off, if you touch the accelerator gently, it almost stalls and than as your foot goes further down on the pedal, it picks up momentum.

To make the long story short, no stalling. shivers like a massive vibrator (If you place a cup of water on the dash board, it might spill around), car runs smoothly after take off. That's all I have in hand.

As I mentioned in my first e-mail, before this issue merged , I had a problem with the Variable valve timing shit. It was ticking between 0 to 2000rmp. now that ticking is gone. I don't know whether these problems are related or not.

I think the Variable timing unit clicked something sensitive, and now the car is having orgasm.... :)

did u fix the vvt or did it just stop by itself?

if u fixed it, the mechanic might have knocked a hose loose or forgot to tighten a bolt somewhere thus causing a vacuum leak which can have the same effect as you described above.

if u didn't touch the vvt and it just went away itself...then I reckon it's your fuel damper gone bad thus causing this new problem you have described.

The car used to have stalling problem as well. That's why I changed the fuel pump thinking that it might be the reason. However the issue was still there after changing the pump.

I might try to replace the fuel pressure damper to see if it makes any difference.

Any part number for the fuel pressure damper for 2001 300GT V35 VQ30DD engine (direct injection)

Just wanna ask one more question, If there is a problem with the fuel damper or pressure regulator (are they the same thing or what?), do you think the car shakes all the time or just when idles?

Because in my case, the car shakes only when I stop and it idles. when I accelerate there is no problem at all. The car runs nice and smooth.

I think I have the dampener here on my spare 2.5dd if you want a cheap one. Have you priced it from Nissan yet? Could be the HP fuel pump too I guess.

It would be good if you could get a fuel pressure gauge on the high pressure side, that would prove if the dampener and the pump are faulty or not.

  • 2 weeks later...

it seems like there is no leak. I took it to the Nissan Service centre. They came up with a list of error codes starting from the crank shaft sensor, 2 of the cam timing sensors and mass air flow sensor. At the end of the list it says $1434.00 including the labour.

2 V-cam timing sensors supply and fi $700

Crank shaft sensor $348

Mass air flow sensor $386

they cant even say whether it's going to fix the problem or not.

I was driving home today and the damn thing stalled. I pulled over and tried to restart....not a chance.

I got out to get some fresh air and after 10 mins, I got back in and it started.

I'm sick and tired of this car but I just cant throw it away.

I had gone to Nuwan before when I had that ticking noise from the engine (variable valve timing stuff I had mentioned before). He came up with a longer list of things to be done. At least he can tell me that what he is going to do is going to fix the problem. On the other hand he will replace a lot of things to sort it out. his list costs $ 3600

Lol. Why not see if the sensors are the same as vq35de, as they are available from the US at better prices. Change them for yourself and find out.

The sensors can be bought for $75 or there abouts each.

Nissan can EAD.

I was going to bring it to you Scotty, but I mentioned earlier the ticking noise disappeared when the vibration started. Changing the sensors is not an issue, but the questions is will it solve the problem. if that ticking noise was affecting the timing, then it would be normal that the sensors were delivering wrong signals which might mean there might be nothing wrong with the sensors.

Even if the sensors are changed, I strongly believe that the problem will be there.

I'm really confused.

At least Nuwan gives me warranty although the list he came up with is long and costly.

I have just purchased roadside assistance, just to make sure.

I'm planning to go overseas, so cant invest any money on it now.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
×
×
  • Create New...