Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok here is an update to the matter in case its useful to anyone.

I went to another sau member place (500hp) and after some testing he isolated the likely culprit is the AIR flow meter. With the air flow meter unplugged, the car held 15 btdc timing fine. Unplugging the other sensor, TPS, aac vavle, etc did nothing to to affect the irrational timing. Plug the AFM back in, car shuts of, upon restart the timing is jumping around again.

So I will try get another AFM and see if that fixes the issue. Hopefully it fixes the 02 sensor being all over the place too.

It's not the cam gear that is worn out, the cas doesn't connect to the cam gear at all. It passes straight through the middle of it and into the camshaft. It's possibly the drive in the camshaft that is flogged out, not anything to do with the cam gear. Can happen when people don't fit the CAS properly, eg. not putting the spacers in between the CAS and the mount, causing the CAS to sit further in than it should and damaging things.

Ok I understand exactly what you mean now. I had a look at the drive on both camshaft and cas end and they a are both fine. A half moon piece of metal shaking hands with the opposite other.

Ok , why do you think you actually have a problem? The ecu alters the timing to maintain idle. Unplug the tps and see what happens. Thats what you have to do when timing the car. How did you set tge base timing when you swapped the cas?

I think I have a problem because the timing should not be jumping around like crazy at idle. I have tested other cars and they hold steady timing fine at idle and above. Unplugging the TPS doesn't change it. I am now definitely satisfied mine is abnormal.

Your best off giving it to someone to look at for you who knows what causes the issues your having.

30mins and the problem should be located.
5mins pulling the CAS out and physically looking at the drive peg
15mins putting a scope on the two signal wires
5 mins checking the shielding
And 5 mins of fart arsing around tidying up.

It might take more than 30mins to fix the problem but locating it is not hard.

I've got several Sensors at the workshop your welcome to try them but chances are it won't be the problem.

I really appreciate that. I just managed to try another members cas and it was still jumping around, but in his car minutes ago the same cas wasn't. So yes you are correct it isnt the cas. As above it seems the AFM is the culprit.

Edited by sonicz

use datascan to set base idle, if it still does it while its in the "set mode" its abnormal....

i see that timing fluctuation on a daily basis at idle... not abnormal just a few things new adjusting.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Perfect, I'll get to it this winter then at the same time as I weld on my anti squat kit. 
    • Alright so my 32 only has one temperature no matter what degree you set it to. I’ve tried disconnecting the servo motor arm and moving it either direction and got no change. I’ve fixed the leak in my AC and re charged it and with it on and clutch engaged it still blows hot even though the low pressure pipe going to the firewall is ice cold. Both heater core hoses are hot while running as well. Diagnostic code showed 24 for intake air temperature sensor. Anybody got any ideas?
    • I said Garrett style. Not Garrett genuine. And something in the G30 550 range is what you want. Not those pokey little old fashioned T28 sized things. The intake ports in the head are small. There is little benefit in fattening up the runners and leaving ths actual ports small. Just run what you've got. And on the subject of Nistune vs Haltech etc..... You know you can control the transmission with decent standalone ECUs these days, right? No need to keep any of that old Nissan bullshit. Don't get me wrong - I use Nistune on my Neo. But it is a DET, so the number of bodges and workarounds I had to do to make it work in a chassis without ABS, TCS, etc, is quite small compared to the herniated arsehole you will have trying to make it work on a motor that doesn't have some of the things that the turbo ECU wants to see. Just easier to bite the bullet and go aftermarket outright.      
    • Hmm. Only when the f**king thing is actually working. Still can't find the leak. And that's with dye being put in the last 3 times!
×
×
  • Create New...