Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'd love to plastidip my car, after I get my rims mid year, I'll be on my way saving for some!

Are you able to use a bottle spray gun and an air compressor, or is it better to buy an electric gun?

Any tips for matte white on white? My bonnets clearcoat is pealing, and I've got small blemishes/fading/scratches here and there, hence the reason why I'd like to give it a go :)

Are you able to use a bottle spray gun and an air compressor, or is it better to buy an electric gun?

I painted the mini with a gravity fed spray gun and compressor at about 15-18psi. But I was told after I shouldn't have used it and for better results to use the electric ones.

Im no professional but I think the mini came out ok. It's only the second car I've painted.

I've had the matte black on my wheels for about 6 months, it's great stuff.

Only issues were: can't really clean the wheels by hand as brushes etc are too harsh, and tyre gel looks crap on plastidip!

Bear in mind that when you change tyres it will wreck the edges - I was lazy and just went over the wheels again, however it's started to peel again off one of the fronts, so I'm tossing up on just pulling it off all 4 and redoing it.

I've also pressure washed the crap out of the wheels every single week, it doesn't budge unless it's been 'picked at' on the edges. Even if you do a hatchet job of spraying it like me, you can blend it in easily and it tends to meld together as it dries.

To do wheels at least again, I'd just leave them on the car, put garbage bags on the rotors and do them on the car (after cleaning with dishwashing detergent). About 4 quick sweeps over each wheel is all they really need, ended up being 2 - 2.5 cans from memory.

How big are your wheels mate?

I've had the matte black on my wheels for about 6 months, it's great stuff.

Only issues were: can't really clean the wheels by hand as brushes etc are too harsh, and tyre gel looks crap on plastidip!

Bear in mind that when you change tyres it will wreck the edges - I was lazy and just went over the wheels again, however it's started to peel again off one of the fronts, so I'm tossing up on just pulling it off all 4 and redoing it.

I've also pressure washed the crap out of the wheels every single week, it doesn't budge unless it's been 'picked at' on the edges. Even if you do a hatchet job of spraying it like me, you can blend it in easily and it tends to meld together as it dries.

To do wheels at least again, I'd just leave them on the car, put garbage bags on the rotors and do them on the car (after cleaning with dishwashing detergent). About 4 quick sweeps over each wheel is all they really need, ended up being 2 - 2.5 cans from memory.

Hattori Hanzo 69, on 15 May 2013 - 12:13, said:

for those who have used it, would you plasti dip a roll cage?

I think that would be perfectly fine, but for the price you pay for plasti dip, why not just buy a few cans of matte black.

The only reason why you'd plasti dip is if you want to remove it later down the track.

  • 6 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

-Cheap

-Easy

-Reversible

-Looks good when done right

-Can also add pearls etc

-Matte finish is the best/easiest for the DIY expert haha

-You can apply a gloss as well, I would recommend someone with a bit more know how and technique for this though

Plus make sure the car is alcohol prepped properly and for best results up to 7 coats

-You can purchase enough to do a whole car for anywhere between 3-5 hundred, so if you can DIY you're laughing!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Yea that's a fair assumption. I'm presuming they call them solid lifters as they have no moving parts like hydro lifters. 
    • I believe you're confusing WMI with water injection. Looking at that graph, the 93aki+WMI car is making more power than C16 race gas. Boost juice, which is what I also run, is Snow Performances 50/50 premix. 
    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
×
×
  • Create New...