Jump to content
SAU Community

Blew My Op6 Turbo Need Some Advice.

sirdriftsalot
 Share

Recommended Posts

sirdriftsalot Enthusiast

sirdriftsalot

Posted
Posted (edited)

hey guys,

so tonight my R34 OP6 turbo decided to let the fins go and im going to go bigger, now i already know that i want to head in the direction of the Kando turbos as ive read heaps and heaps of good feedback with them.

ive decided to get a TD06, now my actual question is...

am i able to bolt it straight to the car get my dump pipe made up and run it on low boost? because my car was previously tuned with the OP6 and i cant really afford to retune etc after i buy the turbo as i want to save it until i get the rest of the supporting mods ie. injectors, fuel pump Z32 etc..

i will put up a list of my current modifications.

-Nistune With Current Mods

-14PSI was tuned for 14psi but i only ever ran 12psi

-OEM OP6 Turbo

-HKS EVC Boost Controller

-Fujitsubo 3.5'' exhaust system
-3" Dump Pipe
-3" Nismo Front Pipe
-Splitfire coil packs
-Greddy Oil Cooler
-Greddy Return Flow FMIC
-HKS SSQV b.o.v
-Blitz Sus power Intake
-Metal Intake Pipe

any help or maybe suggestions would be great thanks in advance.
Edited by sirdriftsalot
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425185-blew-my-op6-turbo-need-some-advice/
Share on other sites
ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted

Kando make a bolt on version of this turbo now...search his eBay site u should find it...makes about 270with supporting mods..

You will be able to run it but best get it tuned as is...you can always add the Z32 and iniecotrs later..even without them you should make 220kw or so

hypergear Grand Master

hypergear

Posted
Posted

OP6 been a larger turbine housing has advantage of making more power over standard R33 housing, usually pump around the 260rwkws mark after high flow with very good response. How ever if you don't mind lag and has plans to high mount it we can high flow it to produce towards 400rwkws.

Alternatively our latest G3 or a SS2 in a customised .82 turbine are direct bolton turbos and generally makes around the 280rwkws mark on stock manifold internally gated. Those are multi-adapt turbochargers that can be easily high mounted, and making towards 375rwkws mark on E85 with very good response.

To fit a L2 based turbo in 10cm you will need a proper high mount manifold with a large external gate. Have a look at our latest SLSS2 billet L2 10cm turbo, they max 385rwkws with 20psi by 3800rpms.

Run a high flowed or SS/G3 turbos on 10psi with your current tune it should work fine, stock injectors will limit peek power to the 220rwkws mark unless get Toshi (check sponsor) to have a play at it, he did manage 260rwkws on stock injectors with two of our customer's cars based on our standard R33 high flowed turbocharger.

sirdriftsalot Enthusiast

sirdriftsalot

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Nope..they make one that bolts to your stock dump as well...keep looking ;) or just get HYpergear to hiflow yours it will make more power

reckon you could

possibly link me to the one with the dump flange? I've yet to see one.

cheers man

and high flowing is definitely on the list.. just depending on what my money allows

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Duncan · Posted

      Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...